Protocols are organized by loading method and application context.
Each protocol defines a specific loading mode, intensity framework, and progression model.
Use this section as a technical reference for precise execution.
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Force-Measured Protocols
Performed using force-measurement devices to prescribe intensity relative to individual capacity.
Enables precise, repeatable loading for developing maximal strength, sustainable force, and other measurable performance qualities.
Used to track performance and apply objective progression over time.
Climbing-Based Protocols
On-the-wall training using controlled movement, intensity, and duration.
Applied across a range of formats—from low-intensity continuous climbing and technical drills to structured bouldering sessions—depending on the training goal.
Used to develop aerobic capacity, movement efficiency, coordination, and sport-specific strength.
Preparation & Movement Protocols
Low-intensity protocols focused on preparing the body for climbing through activation, coordination, and movement control.
Used to establish scapular stability, improve movement sequencing, and connect the fingers, shoulders, and trunk before loading.
Typically performed before climbing sessions to enhance movement quality, reduce injury risk, and improve force transfer during the main work.
Climbing-Specific Conditioning
Supplemental off-the-wall exercises designed to improve climbing-specific strength, structural support, and movement capacity.
Applied to develop qualities such as posterior chain strength, trunk stability, pulling power, heel hook strength, and full-body tension control.
Used to address physical weaknesses, improve force transfer through the body, and build resilient movement support for climbing performance.
General Conditioning
General strength and aerobic conditioning exercises that complement climbing-specific training, including resistance training, unilateral strength work, shoulder and scapular conditioning, and low-intensity cardiovascular activities.
These protocols develop general physical capacity, address individual strength limitations, and support balanced training alongside climbing-specific work.
Exercises can be incorporated into preparation, primary, or accessory phases of training sessions, depending on their purpose and intensity.
Tendon / Tissue Capacity Protocols
Controlled loading protocols designed to improve tissue tolerance, support tendon remodeling, and reduce injury risk.
Load is applied in a stable and repeatable manner, with intensity regulated through force control, tempo, and duration rather than movement variability.
Used to develop tendon resilience, pain-free load capacity, and long-term training sustainability without excessive fatigue.
Arm-Lifting Protocols
Externally loaded finger strength protocols using a lift edge and added resistance.
Intensity is controlled through load selection and structured progression, without direct force feedback.