Primary Goal
Rest 1 min between sets and before next stage
Reverse Wrist Curls (Extension): 2–3 sets × 10–15 reps per side (both sides) @ 5–7/10 RPE
Rest 1 min between sets
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When to use it
Use Wrist Curls & Reverse Wrist Curls to develop wrist flexor and extensor strength, improve local muscular capacity, and prepare the forearms for demanding gripping and tool-handling tasks.
- As supplementary conditioning after climbing
- As part of a gym strength and conditioning session
- During preparation for dry-tooling or ice climbing
- When wrist strength or load tolerance is an identified limitation
Keep this work supplementary to your main climbing training. Avoid adding substantial wrist fatigue immediately before priority climbing sessions.
Preparation
If performed after climbing, a separate general warm-up is usually unnecessary. Begin with one easy set of each movement before progressing to working intensity.
For standalone sessions, warm up the wrists and forearms with gentle movement and progressively loaded repetitions.
Starting position
- Sit beside a bench or stable support with your forearm resting comfortably on it.
- Allow the wrist and hand to extend beyond the edge so they can move freely.
- For wrist curls, hold a light dumbbell with the palm facing upward.
- For reverse wrist curls, turn the forearm so the palm faces downward.
- Keep the forearm supported and the elbow relatively still.
- Choose a load that allows smooth movement through a comfortable range.
Execution
Stage 1 — Wrist Curls (Flexion)
- Start with the palm facing upward and the wrist slightly extended.
- Curl the wrist upward by contracting the wrist flexors.
- Pause briefly near the top without forcing the joint position.
- Lower the weight slowly and under control.
- Complete the prescribed repetitions on each side.
Stage 2 — Reverse Wrist Curls (Extension)
- Turn the forearm so the palm faces downward.
- Lift the back of the hand by extending the wrist.
- Keep the forearm supported and avoid compensating with the elbow or shoulder.
- Lower slowly through a comfortable range.
- Complete the prescribed repetitions on each side.
Use controlled movement in both directions rather than relying on momentum.
Dosage
- Wrist Curls: 2–3 sets × 10–15 reps per side
- Reverse Wrist Curls: 2–3 sets × 10–15 reps per side
- Intensity: RPE 5–7/10
- Approximately 60 seconds between sets
- Frequency: 1–2 times per week initially
Use relatively light loads at first, particularly for reverse wrist curls. Progress according to movement quality and recovery.
Progression
Progress by increasing repetitions before adding weight.
- Begin with 2 sets of 10 controlled repetitions per side.
- Gradually build toward 15 repetitions per set.
- Add a small amount of weight once all repetitions remain smooth and comfortable.
- Return to the lower end of the repetition range after increasing the load.
- Add a third set only when recovery and training demands allow.
Progress wrist flexion and extension independently. The same weight does not need to be used for both movements.
Important
- Begin conservatively, especially if direct wrist strengthening is unfamiliar.
- Avoid sudden loading, excessive momentum, or forced end-range positions.
- Use lighter weights for reverse wrist curls when necessary.
- Stop or reduce loading if wrist or elbow pain develops or increases.
- Allow sufficient recovery when combining this protocol with finger training, board climbing, or dry-tooling practice.
- Do not treat wrist curls as a substitute for specific tool-handling technique and grip training.
Expected effects
- Increased wrist flexor and extensor strength
- Improved local forearm muscular capacity
- Better control of wrist flexion and extension under load
- Improved tolerance to progressive wrist loading
- Greater capacity to stabilize the wrist during demanding gripping tasks
- Supplementary preparation for dry-tooling and ice-climbing demands