Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer
The Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer will allow you to see how strong your fingers truly are. This will give you a basic idea of how hard you should be able to boulder and how much time you should invest in strength training to progress. It will also allow you to determine whether it’s strength or technique that is potentially holding you back! So get your weight belt, or a bucket full of sand, and hop on the hangboard, to see if you’re the next Alex Megos!
Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer Instructions
Pick an edge between 10 – 20 mm deep, and hang for as long as you can. You can add or subtract weight, or simply hang at your body weight. Use any grip position you like, although the half crimp is preferred. Input your body weight, the total hang load and time, and see the result!
Note: Shorter hang times at higher loads produce more accurate results. This is only a rough finger strength estimation – remember that in bouldering technique is also very important!
The Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer uses a conversion algorithm between hang time and edge depth, which is based on my personal research. The hang time to maximum strength calculation is based on a variation of the Rohmert’s curve . You can find more information on the Rohmert’s curve and other hang time mathematical models in 
The bouldering level prediction is based on the results of the survey published at .
- Rohmert, W., 1960. Ermittlung von Erholungspausen für statische Arbeit des Menschen. Internationale Zeitschrift für Angewandte Physiologie Einschliesslich Arbeitsphysiologie 18, 123–164. (link)
- J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders Hangboard Finger Strength Training, May 18, 2019. (link)
- https://toclimb8a.shinyapps.io/maxtograde/ (link)