Train climbing endurance with structured repeaters and pyramids sessions.

Density Hangs, popularized by Dr. Tyler Nelson, are a powerful hangboard protocol used to improve finger durability, tendon health, and resistance to injury. By exposing the fingers to long, controlled loading, the method helps prepare the muscle–tendon system for harder climbing while also supporting rehabilitation and tissue remodeling.

The Hangboard Moving Hangs (HMH) climbing training protocol was described by Eric Hörst in his book Conditioning for Climbers. Because the intensity of the exercise is rather low, even beginner climbers with a couple of months of training under their belt can give it a try. The Hangboard Moving Hangs climbing training protocol is a perfect introduction to hangboarding, because it's safe, it puts less strain on the shoulders than typical dead hangs, and it's easy to do. This routine is a powerful and versatile technique for developing forearm endurance, and it is worth including in any climber's training portfolio! I started hangboarding with the Hangboard Moving Hangs climbing endurance protocol myself, and I would recommend it to both beginners and advanced climbers.

The Eva López SubHangs strength endurance protocol is characterized by long hang times of up to 45 seconds, at relatively low loads, between 55 - 85% MVC-7. This approach is aimed primarily at improving strength endurance and potentially also strength itself, through hypertrophy. The Eva López SubHangs strength endurance protocol is quite similar to the more old fashioned way of hangboard training, where long hangs till failure were preferred. The protocol can be executed in two versions, the minimum edge with no added weight (SubHangs MED) and with added weight (SubHangs MAW). Use this method if you want to reduce recovery times between sustained sections of a route, or if you need to be able to hang on to small holds for longer!

The Zlagboard Forearm Endurance Workout is a high-pump protocol designed to improve tolerance to intense anaerobic fatigue. Although not highly climbing-specific, it may help with long, pumpy cruxes and repeated hard efforts. Use it selectively and keep your climbing goals in mind.

Endurance Repeaters are a less known modification of the standard 7/3 Hangboard Repeaters protocol. The idea behind this method is to perform intermittent hangs until failure, with the load reduced to only 30 – 40% of your maximum voluntary contraction (MVC). Such training is known to introduce adaptations, which include improved capillary density and vascular conductance, increases in size and density of the mitochondria, aerobic enzymes and fat oxidation, as well as sparing of muscle glycogen, reduced rates of lactate (La-) production and enhanced La- removal. Ultimately, you should expect improved oxygen supply to the muscles and better maximal endurance capacity. Give Endurance Repeaters a try if you often get pumped before you even reach the crux on those long sport routes!