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ENDURANCE TRAINING

If you are a sport or trad climber, then you will find forearm endurance critical. There are two types of endurance, anaerobic and aerobic, and both are crucial if you want to send hard. Both can also be effectively trained with well-designed protocols, described here in detail.

Endurance Training

Calculate your sport climbing grade with the new Tindeq setting!

Instructional video included!


The Tindeq Progressor is a portable force plate to aid your rock climbing training, and it just got a new feature – Critical Force measurements!


In rock climbing training Critical Force (CF) is a useful way of evaluating forearm endurance. What’s more, based on the models developed by Lattice Training and StrengthClimbing it’s possible to recalculate your Critical Force measurements into your expected sport climbing redpoint grade, find your climbing weaknesses, and optimize your endurance training!


But what’s best is that you don’t even need to invest in a dedicated force plate dynamometer to perform such an analysis. With a bit of creativity, a simple crane scale or even a bathroom scale will do.


To find out more, please read the full article and take your endurance training to the next level!


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Sport Climbing Level Calculator – Automatic Climbing Assessment!

The Sport Climbing Level Calculator is a tool designed to automatically evaluate the athlete’s physical sport climbing performance.


The tool evaluates the athlete’s finger strength and endurance and outputs an assessment report with training recommendations tailored to the climber’s performance profile.


Amateur climbers can use the calculator to learn what their sport climbing level should be compared with other similarly strong climbers. Then, using the calculator, the climber can easily design their training plan.


Coaches will find the Sport Climbing Level Calculator helpful in assessing their clients and quickly designing a draft of their training regimen.

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Endurance Repeaters Pyramids climbing endurance protocol
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The best hangboard endurance training for rock climbing – Pyramids

Functional spreadsheet with Endurance Repeaters Pyramids training cycle included!


The Endurance Repeaters Pyramids is a very flexible exercise for building aerobic and anaerobic endurance required for high-level sport and trad climbing.


By appropriately controlling the training load and training volume, we can target the following:


  • Lactic capacity
  • Anaerobic threshold
  • Maximum oxygen consumption
  • Aerobic threshold


I’ve been successfully using the Endurance Repeaters Pyramids training method with my clients for years, obtaining significant improvements in Critical Force, which translated directly to sport climbing performance. Please try this technique and let me know your results!

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Finger strength measurement on a fingerboard
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How to test rock climbing finger endurance – simple guide

Instructional video included!


Endurance is the most elusive quality in rock climbing. How can some climbers power through unending sequences of hard moves without breaking a sweat, while others end up pumped before they even get to the crux? The answer is aerobic endurance, or in other words, Critical Force.


Read this article to learn how to make simple and reliable rock climbing endurance measurements using a hangboard. With this knowledge, you’ll be able to identify and address your weaknesses to break your sport climbing plateau!

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Climber training on the hangboard using Tyler Nelsons Density Hangs protocol
Endurance Training

Dr. Tyler Nelson’s Density Hangs Finger Training for Rock Climbing

Density Hangs, named so and popularized by Dr. Tyler Nelson, is a powerful hangboard training protocol. The term Density Hangs stems from the fact that the routine is generally considered to increase the cross-section of forearm tendons. That is partly true as pretty much any hangboard training method does that, but the main advantages of this unique exercise lie elsewhere. Namely, you can effectively use this method to make the muscle-tendon system more robust and less susceptible to injury. That lets you prepare your forearms and fingers for heavy and dynamic training loads while reducing the risk of damaging the connective tissues, which would stall your progress. In addition, if you’re already injured, you can use Density Hangs to speed up the healing process and increase the quality of your tendons by overcoming the stress-shielding mechanism and forcing the disrupted collagen to realign correctly. Read on if you would like to learn more about this must-know fingerboard protocol.

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Endurance Training

Eric Hörst Hangboard Moving Hangs climbing training endurance protocol

The Hangboard Moving Hangs (HMH) climbing training protocol was described by Eric Hörst in his book Conditioning for Climbers. Because the intensity of the exercise is rather low, even beginner climbers with a couple of months of training under their belt can give it a try.

The Hangboard Moving Hangs climbing training protocol is a perfect introduction to hangboarding, because it’s safe, it puts less strain on the shoulders than typical dead hangs, and it’s easy to do. This routine is a powerful and versatile technique for developing forearm endurance, and it is worth including in any climber’s training portfolio! I started hangboarding with the Hangboard Moving Hangs climbing endurance protocol myself, and I would recommend it to both beginners and advanced climbers.

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Eva Lopez Subhangs strength endurance hangboard training
Endurance Training

Eva López SubHangs strength endurance protocol

The Eva López SubHangs strength endurance protocol is characterized by long hang times of up to 45 seconds, at relatively low loads, between 55 – 85% MVC-7. This approach is aimed primarily at improving strength endurance and potentially also strength itself, through hypertrophy. The Eva López SubHangs strength endurance protocol is quite similar to the more old fashioned way of hangboard training, where long hangs till failure were preferred. The protocol can be executed in two versions, the minimum edge with no added weight (SubHangs MED) and with added weight (SubHangs MAW). Use this method if you want to reduce recovery times between sustained sections of a route, or if you need to be able to hang on to small holds for longer!

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Zlagboard Forearm Endurance Workout hangboard training climbing
Endurance Training

Zlagboard Forearm Endurance Workout

The Zlagboard comes with a built-in Forearm Endurance Workout protocol. The idea behind the method is to generate a severe forearm pump, targeting the anaerobic lactic energy system and improving both the physiological and psychological tolerance to high acidic loads. While not very climbing-specific, the Zlagboard Forearm Endurance Workout might be just what you need to get you through long, hard, and pumpy cruxes. Boulderers may also benefit from faster regeneration between attempts, as well as from muscle hypertrophy caused by growth hormone release triggered by lowered blood pH. Go ahead and give the Zlagboard Forearm Endurance Workout a try if you like suffering, but keep your climbing goals in mind!

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Endurance Repeaters HangboardTraining Protocol
Endurance Training

Endurance Repeaters – Forearm Aerobic Endurance Hangboard Routine

Endurance Repeaters are a less known modification of the standard 7/3 Hangboard Repeaters protocol. The idea behind this method is to perform intermittent hangs until failure, with the load reduced to only 30 – 40% of your maximum voluntary contraction (MVC). Such training is known to introduce adaptations, which include improved capillary density and vascular conductance, increases in size and density of the mitochondria, aerobic enzymes and fat oxidation, as well as sparing of muscle glycogen, reduced rates of lactate (La-) production and enhanced La- removal. Ultimately, you should expect improved oxygen supply to the muscles and better maximal endurance capacity. Give Endurance Repeaters a try if you often get pumped before you even reach the crux on those long sport routes!

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Eva López IntHangs strength endurance fingerboard protocol with added weight
Endurance Training

Eva López IntHangs strength endurance fingerboard protocol

The Intermittent Dead Hangs (IntHangs) protocols were developed by Eva López for strength endurance training. While similar to the classic Repeaters, IntHangs are generally characterized by lower volume. IntHangs should constitute only a part of a training session and be combined with other activities. lntHangs can be executed in two versions, the minimum edge with no added weight (IntHangs MED) and fixed edge with added weight (IntHangs MAW). Both methods trigger muscle hypertrophy because of the relatively long time under tension (TUT) and medium loads.

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Hangboard repeaters strength endurance hangboard protocol climbing training
Endurance Training

Hangboard Repeaters strength endurance protocol

The classic 7/3 Repeaters are a typical strength endurance training protocol, designed to mimic the grip and relax sequence that is characteristic of climbing. The loads used are generally low, compared to the Eva López MaxHangs protocol, or to the Eric Hörst’s “7-53” protocol, which makes Repeaters safer for intermediate climbers. The rest times between hangs are on the other hand very short, typically just 3 seconds, which stimulates the anaerobic lactic energy system and inevitably leads to severe muscle pump. While Eric Hörst doesn’t consider repeaters to be the best strength endurance protocol, he still thinks it can be useful as a pre-season preparation for lead climbers.

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