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STRENGTH TRAINING

Finger strength is the most critical quality in climbing, and all other skills derive from it. Finger strength should be trained regularly to maintain slow but steady progress. Fortunately, there exist many training protocols that are a surefire way to get you that iron claw you always craved!

Arm-Lifting finger strength training
Strength Training

The complete guide to Arm-Lifting finger strength training

Arm-Lifting is a recent trend in finger strength training. Initially, it was used for pinch blocks to isolate the thumb more effectively, but soon, climbers realized they could also use this approach for regular edges to spice up their finger strength training!


The best climbing coaches and athletes, including Lattice Training, Tyler Nelson, and Yves Gravelle, use this state-of-the-art training method to build remarkable finger strength. Read the full article to find everything you need to know to incorporate Arm-Lifting into your finer-strength training program and crush harder than ever!

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Blood Flow Restriction Training for Rock Climbing
Strength Training

Fundamentals of Blood Flow Restriction Training for Rock Climbers

Blood Flow Restriction is one of the most recent innovations in climbing training. I discovered this finger strength training method when I listened to the 2021 Nugget Climbing interview with Tyler Nelson . I decided I had to try it and was thrilled with the results. After one training cycle of about 6 – 8 weeks, my 7-second finger strength (MVC-7) measured on a 20 mm edge hit an all-time peak of 124 kg! Moreover, I could repeat this result in 2022 with another BFR cycle! Since then, I’ve been successfully incorporating occlusion training into my finger strength sessions to give my finger strength an edge.


If you want to improve your finger strength with BFR training but are unsure where to begin, this article is for you! And even if you’re already familiar with occlusion cuff training methods, you may still find some exciting tips on better applying it to rock climbing training!

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Rate of Force Development measurement with the Tindeq Progressor load cell.
Premium Content

All you need to know for perfect RFD measurements with Tindeq Progressor!

Instructional video included!


Rate of Force Development (RFD), often termed contact strength, is a highly critical factor determining your climbing performance.


Knowing your RFD is essential if you want to train effectively and keep progressing as a lead climber or boulderer!


In this article, you’ll find everything you need to know to measure and evaluate and your finger RFD practically with the Tindeq Progressor!

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Premium Content

Sport Climbing Level Calculator – Automatic Climbing Assessment!

The Sport Climbing Level Calculator is a tool designed to automatically evaluate the athlete’s physical sport climbing performance.


The tool evaluates the athlete’s finger strength and endurance and outputs an assessment report with training recommendations tailored to the climber’s performance profile.


Amateur climbers can use the calculator to learn what their sport climbing level should be compared with other similarly strong climbers. Then, using the calculator, the climber can easily design their training plan.


Coaches will find the Sport Climbing Level Calculator helpful in assessing their clients and quickly designing a draft of their training regimen.

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Finger strength measurement on a fingerboard
Premium Content

Finger strength measurements for rock climbers made easy!

Instructional video included!


If you’re serious about training for climbing, monitoring your progress, and making the most out of your hangboard training, you need to have a clear finger strength benchmark.


In this article, you’ll find all you need to make accurate and reliable maximum finger strength tests that can later serve as a solid benchmark for designing your own finger strength and forearm endurance training drills and in-depth climbing data analysis.


As a bonus, you’ll also find a super helpful calculator to convert any weighted hang to an MVC-7 measurement and an instructional video to get you step-by-step through the testing process!

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Hard bouldering
Strength Training

Eric Hörst’s “7-53” finger strength training program (case study)

In this article, you will find the results of a hangboard strength training plan designed and executed by one of my blog readers. The program was based on the Maximum Weight “7-53” protocol – a highly effective finger strength training method developed by Eric Hörst.

Carson trained hard, and in just eight weeks, he improved his finger strength by 17% relative to his body weight. Go ahead and read the full article to learn the details of his training program!

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Strength Training

Eric Hörsts “7-53” Hangboard Maximalkraft-Protokoll

Das “7-53” Hangboard Maximalkraft-Protokoll ist eine hocheffektive Krafttrainingsmethode, die von Eric Hörst als etwas zwischen dem klassischen 7/3-Repeater-Protokoll und Eva López MaxHangs entwickelt wurde. Dieses sehr zeiteffiziente Protokoll ist der Mittelweg zwischen Kraft- und Kraftausdauertraining und wird für mittlere und fortgeschrittene Kletterer empfohlen. Mit dieser Methode stieg Eric auf einer 14-mm-Kante von 22,5 kg auf 41 kg Zusatzgewicht, und es ist sein bevorzugtes Hangboard-Protokoll!

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Mtoda 7-53 trening siły palców chwytotablica wspinaczka
Strength Training

Metoda “7-53” Erica Hörsta – trening wspinaczkowy siły palców na chwytotablicy

Opracowana przez Erica Hörsta metoda “7-53” jest bardzo skutecznym sposobem trenowania siły maksymalnej palców na chwytotablicy. Ten protokół treningowy jest czymś pomiędzy standardową metodą 7/3 Repeaters a metodą MaxHangs Evy López. Ten wydajny czasowo protokół łączy w sobie elementy treningu czysto siłowego oraz treningu wytrzymałości siłowej i zalecany jest średnio zaawansowanym i zaawansowanym wspinaczom. Dzięki wieloletniemu treningowi przy użyciu metody “7-53” Eric Hörst zwiększył dodatkowe obciążenie z którym ćwiczy na krawądce 14 mm z 22.5 kg do 41 kg i jest to nadal jego ulubiony sposób trenowania siły palców!

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8-month climbing hangboard finger strength training progress Bechtel's 3-6-9 Ladders strengthclimbing
Strength Training

8-month Hangboard Finger Strength Training Program Results

In this post, I describe the results of my eight-month hangboard finger strength training program with Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders routine. My goal was to verify how much I can progress my absolute and relative finger strength while undergoing a weight loss intervention, and under conditions of chronic sleep deprivation.
With the program, I increased my MVC-7 HC 20 absolute strength from 108 kg to 116 kg. During the last training cycle, I managed to reduce my body weight from 65.5 kg to 61 kg through Intermittent Fasting and Low Carbohydrate/Keto Diet. As a result, I increased my relative finger strength from 163.5% to 190%, allowing me to improve from the 7A benchmark to 7B benchmark level on the Moonboard Masters 2017 hold setup. Go ahead and find out the details!

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One Arm Hang strength climbing training hangboard
Strength Training

One Arm Hangs hangboard training protocol

The One Arm Hangs protocol was made popular by Chris Webb-Parsons, an Australian V15 boulderer. The One Arm Hangs can be particularly useful to climbers who are so strong that they need to add very high loads, even over 50 kg, to make their two-handed hangs challenging enough, and for whom reducing the hold size may at some point become painful. Since the One Arm Hangs protocol is very different from any two-handed hangboard protocol, if you never tried it before, you are likely to notice quick strength gains, owing to the entirely new stimuli it provides. This can make One Arm Hangs the perfect tool whenever you need to break through a plateau.

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