Finger strength is the most critical quality in climbing, and all other skills derive from it. Finger strength should be trained regularly to maintain slow but steady progress. Fortunately, there exist many training protocols that are a surefire way to get you that iron claw you always craved!
All you need to know for perfect RFD measurements with Tindeq Progressor!
Instructional video included!
Rate of Force Development (RFD), often termed contact strength, is a highly critical factor determining your climbing performance.
Knowing your RFD is essential if you want to train effectively and keep progressing as a lead climber or boulderer!
In this article, you’ll find everything you need to know to measure and evaluate and your finger RFD practically with the Tindeq Progressor!
Sport Climbing Level Calculator – Automatic Climbing Assessment!
The Sport Climbing Level Calculator is a tool designed to automatically evaluate the athlete’s physical sport climbing performance.
The tool evaluates the athlete’s finger strength and endurance and outputs an assessment report with training recommendations tailored to the climber’s performance profile.
Amateur climbers can use the calculator to learn what their sport climbing level should be compared with other similarly strong climbers. Then, using the calculator, the climber can easily design their training plan.
Coaches will find the Sport Climbing Level Calculator helpful in assessing their clients and quickly designing a draft of their training regimen.
Dr. Tyler Nelson’s new active finger strength training protocols
Dr. Tyler Nelson is among the most prolific coaches and climbing influencers today. He takes nothing for granted and constantly looks for new, most effective, and least risky ways to improve our climbing skills.
Eva López MaxHangs Hangboard Training Program Spreadsheet
Functional spreadsheet with an 8-week Eva López MaxHangs Hangboard Training Program!
Finger strength measurements for rock climbers made easy!
Instructional video included!
If you’re serious about training for climbing, monitoring your progress, and making the most out of your hangboard training, you need to have a clear finger strength benchmark.
In this article, you’ll find all you need to make accurate and reliable maximum finger strength tests that can later serve as a solid benchmark for designing your own finger strength and forearm endurance training drills and in-depth climbing data analysis.
As a bonus, you’ll also find a super helpful calculator to convert any weighted hang to an MVC-7 measurement and an instructional video to get you step-by-step through the testing process!
Eric Hörst’s “7-53” finger strength training program (case study)
In this article, you will find the results of a hangboard strength training plan designed and executed by one of my blog readers. The program was based on the Maximum Weight “7-53” protocol – a highly effective finger strength training method developed by Eric Hörst.
Carson trained hard, and in just eight weeks, he improved his finger strength by 17% relative to his body weight. Go ahead and read the full article to learn the details of his training program!
Eric Hörsts “7-53” Hangboard Maximalkraft-Protokoll
Das “7-53” Hangboard Maximalkraft-Protokoll ist eine hocheffektive Krafttrainingsmethode, die von Eric Hörst als etwas zwischen dem klassischen 7/3-Repeater-Protokoll und Eva López MaxHangs entwickelt wurde. Dieses sehr zeiteffiziente Protokoll ist der Mittelweg zwischen Kraft- und Kraftausdauertraining und wird für mittlere und fortgeschrittene Kletterer empfohlen. Mit dieser Methode stieg Eric auf einer 14-mm-Kante von 22,5 kg auf 41 kg Zusatzgewicht, und es ist sein bevorzugtes Hangboard-Protokoll!
Metoda “7-53” Erica Hörsta – trening wspinaczkowy siły palców na chwytotablicy
Opracowana przez Erica Hörsta metoda “7-53” jest bardzo skutecznym sposobem trenowania siły maksymalnej palców na chwytotablicy. Ten protokół treningowy jest czymś pomiędzy standardową metodą 7/3 Repeaters a metodą MaxHangs Evy López. Ten wydajny czasowo protokół łączy w sobie elementy treningu czysto siłowego oraz treningu wytrzymałości siłowej i zalecany jest średnio zaawansowanym i zaawansowanym wspinaczom. Dzięki wieloletniemu treningowi przy użyciu metody “7-53” Eric Hörst zwiększył dodatkowe obciążenie z którym ćwiczy na krawądce 14 mm z 22.5 kg do 41 kg i jest to nadal jego ulubiony sposób trenowania siły palców!
8-month Hangboard Finger Strength Training Program Results
In this post, I describe the results of my eight-month hangboard finger strength training program with Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders routine. My goal was to verify how much I can progress my absolute and relative finger strength while undergoing a weight loss intervention, and under conditions of chronic sleep deprivation.
With the program, I increased my MVC-7 HC 20 absolute strength from 108 kg to 116 kg. During the last training cycle, I managed to reduce my body weight from 65.5 kg to 61 kg through Intermittent Fasting and Low Carbohydrate/Keto Diet. As a result, I increased my relative finger strength from 163.5% to 190%, allowing me to improve from the 7A benchmark to 7B benchmark level on the Moonboard Masters 2017 hold setup. Go ahead and find out the details!
One Arm Hangs hangboard training protocol
The One Arm Hangs protocol was made popular by Chris Webb-Parsons, an Australian V15 boulderer. The One Arm Hangs can be particularly useful to climbers who are so strong that they need to add very high loads, even over 50 kg, to make their two-handed hangs challenging enough, and for whom reducing the hold size may at some point become painful. Since the One Arm Hangs protocol is very different from any two-handed hangboard protocol, if you never tried it before, you are likely to notice quick strength gains, owing to the entirely new stimuli it provides. This can make One Arm Hangs the perfect tool whenever you need to break through a plateau.
Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders hangboard finger strength training
Steve Bechtel designed his 3-6-9 Ladders protocol as an effective and safe strength training method that can be used both off-season and during the season, while not leading to overtraining or injury. His idea was to reduce the load to the necessary minimum and progress the volume instead. But that does not mean that the loads used are light! Try an 8-week cycle with Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders protocol to trigger both neural and structural adaptations of the forearm muscles!
Eva López MaxHangs hangboard routine for finger strength
The Maximum Hangs (MaxHangs) protocols were developed and popularized by Eva López. The training protocols are low volume and high intensity, and their effectiveness is scientifically proven! MaxHangs became widely accepted in the climbing community and are among the most popular hangboard protocols. The routine can be executed in two versions, the minimum edge with no added weight (MaxHangs MED) and on a fixed edge depth with added weight (MaxHangs MAW). Both methods trigger neural adaptations through short TUT and high loads.