Here are a few simple applications that will help you assess your climbing level and identify your weaknesses. The algorithms are based on generally-available research results and my own experience and measurements.
The Hangboard Training Calculator is an tool that allows the user to calculate the correct load, edge depth, and hang duration for various hangboard exercises.
Choose a fingerboard hold, hang at bodyweight or with any added or subtracted load, and measure your hang time until failure. Based on the result, the program lets you calculate the exact total load with which you can hang on this particular hold for any specified amount of time. Moreover, you can run the test on any edge between 5 – 35 mm and automatically recalculate the result to any other edge depth.
This way, you can quickly determine the correct loads for typical hangboard training routines such as Repeaters, MaxHangs, or Density Hangs.
The Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer 2.0 is finally here! This version is significantly improved compared to the initial one. New features include:
- Height and Arm span module
- Possibility to select your current training mode
- Testing with one-arm hangs
- Intensity expressed in terms of added load
- Auxiliary Pull-ups module
- Evaluation of your BMI
- Detailed written assessment of your performance, together with suggestions on what to do to progress
I did extensive research, analyzed results reported by climbers on various fora, and went through the entire r/climbharder survey from 2017 to fine-tune the algorithm. In the post below the Analyzer app, you will find some cool sample input sets, which you can use for testing.
Try to get creative with the Analyzer and pinpoint your weaknesses! Remember, always warm up before you train!