At StrengthClimbing.com you will find:

  • Details of the most popular end effective training protocols!
  • Tools that will assess your climbing level and help you identify your weaknesses!
  • Articles explaining the most recent findings in climbing training!
  • Tips on how to plan your training cycles!
  • And more!

Hi, I'm Jędrzej, and I love climbing!

As an engineer and a parent, I became interested in how you can maximize training gains with minimum time investment and without getting injured. I ended up reading through hundreds of articles and listening to hours of podcasts before I could make any proper sense of it all. But I think it was worth the effort, and I decided to share the results of my research in the form of a blog. I hope you will find StrengthClimbing gripping and helpful for your training!

But first, let's see how strong you really are!

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Results

Finger Strength Analyzer

Simply pick an edge between 10 – 20 mm deep, and hang for as long as you can. You can add or subtract weight, or simply hang at your body weight. Use any grip position you like, although the half crimp is preferred. Input your body weight, the total hang load and time, and see the result!

Note: Shorter hang times at higher loads produce more accurate results. This is only a rough finger strength estimation – remember that for bouldering technique is also very important!

Now you're ready to

4 thoughts on “Hangboard Repeaters strength endurance protocol”

  1. Hi Jędrzej,
    love your website! Well done. Seems to be very new. Contains very interesting training stuff.
    I’m an old veteran climbing guy who loves still training for climbing.
    Can you recommend a specific training which focuses on gaining more forearm muscles?
    Or what would you do when plateauing with your finger training?

    Best Regards,
    Martin

    1. Hi Martin,

      Thank you very much for your comment. I’m glad you like the site! It is, in fact, quite new, I only launched it in October. I hope you will find it helpful and inspiring for your training.

      Regarding your questions, strength improvements are a combination of neural and structural adaptations. Neural adaptations are the way the activation signal is transferred to your muscles, the number of muscle fibers activated at the same time, fiber firing rate, etc. Structural adaptations include muscle size, capillarization, the quantity of glycogen your muscles can store, metabolic pathways, and so on. If you can combine or cycle these adaptations in a smart way, you are bound to gain strength continuously (within reason, of course).

      The standard way to increase muscle size is to use Hangboard Repeaters, or Intermittent Dead Hangs (IntHangs). These are high volume exercises at low loads (50 – 80% MVC-7), with long hanging times, short rests, and a lot of sets. All this makes these protocols intensive and stressful on the body. Furthermore, to notice improvements, you need to stick to the protocol for at least 6 weeks, but 8 – 12 weeks would be much better.

      On the other hand, protocols leading to neural adaptations, such as the Max Hangs, 7-53, or Bechtel’s Ladders, require high loads (above 90% MVC-7), fewer repetitions, and long rests. This makes them easier to follow, mainly because gains are quickly noticeable, and this helps you stay motivated. However, a plateau is usually promptly reached.

      It’s up to you to decide which protocol is best for you at the current time. It’s best to begin the training cycle with the neural methods and then switch to the structural methods. This way, you will be able to use higher loads and shorter rests with your Repeaters or IntHangs.

      If you reach a plateau, the most straightforward answer is “just change something.” I remember that between 2017 – 2018, I focused solely on Repeaters. I kept adding load, but at one point, I plateaued. I then switched to MaxHangs and started gaining strength again. Then I turned to One Arm Hangs, and now I’m doing Bechtel’s Ladders.

      I highly recommend Bechtel’s Ladders, because in my opinion, they let you combine neural and structural adaptations, and they have a naturally built-in system of varying intensity. I’ve been continuously improving with this protocol for the last six months, and I still haven’t hit a plateau.

      To sum up, there are no simple answers here – it all depends on your current strength level, your previous training history, injury history, and your goals (do you boulder, or sport climb?). I hope I at least in part, answered your questions. If you would like me to help you design a hangboard training plan for this winter, write me an email – I’ll be glad to help, for me, it’s an opportunity to learn!

      Kind regards,

      Jędrzej

  2. hej Jędrzej,

    very interesting blog. Reading your 8 month plan you had. very interesting – keep going with this website!
    br,
    Mateusz

    1. Hi Mateusz!

      Thank you! I’m very glad you liked the article:) I’ll give my best to keep the content interesting, so stay tuned for upcoming posts!
      Best regards,

      Jędrzej

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