TRAINING

If your progress hit a plateau and you feel like “just climbing” is not enough anymore, it is time you should consider starting some supplementary training. Here you will find detailed descriptions of the most popular training protocols for developing both strength and endurance.

Critical force and energy store component plot in climbing aerobic endurance
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Climbing Critical Force Calculator 2020

The Critical Force Calculator will help you determine where you stand with your aerobic endurance. It will also allow you to determine the optimum load at which you should train so that you will soon breeze up through those endurance routes!

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Rate of Force Development measurement with the Tindeq Progressor load cell.
Premium Content

All you need to know for perfect RFD measurements with Tindeq Progressor!

Instructional video included!


Rate of Force Development (RFD), often termed contact strength, is a highly critical factor determining your climbing performance.


Knowing your RFD is essential if you want to train effectively and keep progressing as a lead climber or boulderer!


In this article, you’ll find everything you need to know to measure and evaluate and your finger RFD practically with the Tindeq Progressor!

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Premium Content

Sport Climbing Level Calculator – Automatic Climbing Assessment!

The Sport Climbing Level Calculator is a tool designed to automatically evaluate the athlete’s physical sport climbing performance.


The tool evaluates the athlete’s finger strength and endurance and outputs an assessment report with training recommendations tailored to the climber’s performance profile.


Amateur climbers can use the calculator to learn what their sport climbing level should be compared with other similarly strong climbers. Then, using the calculator, the climber can easily design their training plan.


Coaches will find the Sport Climbing Level Calculator helpful in assessing their clients and quickly designing a draft of their training regimen.

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Endurance Repeaters Pyramids climbing endurance protocol
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The best hangboard endurance training for rock climbing – Pyramids

Functional spreadsheet with Endurance Repeaters Pyramids training cycle included!


The Endurance Repeaters Pyramids is a very flexible exercise for building aerobic and anaerobic endurance required for high-level sport and trad climbing.


By appropriately controlling the training load and training volume, we can target the following:


  • Lactic capacity
  • Anaerobic threshold
  • Maximum oxygen consumption
  • Aerobic threshold


I’ve been successfully using the Endurance Repeaters Pyramids training method with my clients for years, obtaining significant improvements in Critical Force, which translated directly to sport climbing performance. Please try this technique and let me know your results!

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Ketogenic meal for climbers
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Ketogenic diet for rock climbers – pros and cons – review

Climbing is a sport where the strength-to-weight and power-to-weight ratios are critical for success. Therefore, climbers understandably strive to minimize their weight while maintaining lean muscle mass, high performance, and overall well-being.


In this post, I summarize the current scientific knowledge regarding the positive and negative impact of the ketogenic diet on sports and climbing performance.

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Finger strength measurement on a fingerboard
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Finger strength measurements for rock climbers made easy!

Instructional video included!


If you’re serious about training for climbing, monitoring your progress, and making the most out of your hangboard training, you need to have a clear finger strength benchmark.


In this article, you’ll find all you need to make accurate and reliable maximum finger strength tests that can later serve as a solid benchmark for designing your own finger strength and forearm endurance training drills and in-depth climbing data analysis.


As a bonus, you’ll also find a super helpful calculator to convert any weighted hang to an MVC-7 measurement and an instructional video to get you step-by-step through the testing process!

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Finger strength measurement on a fingerboard
Premium Content

How to test rock climbing finger endurance – simple guide

Instructional video included!


Endurance is the most elusive quality in rock climbing. How can some climbers power through unending sequences of hard moves without breaking a sweat, while others end up pumped before they even get to the crux? The answer is aerobic endurance, or in other words, Critical Force.


Read this article to learn how to make simple and reliable rock climbing endurance measurements using a hangboard. With this knowledge, you’ll be able to identify and address your weaknesses to break your sport climbing plateau!

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Training

How to boulder hard – conversation with Paul Gennaro!

This is the story of Paul Gennaro, a New Yorker who recently climbed his personal best at the local climbing area of Shawagunks.

In early 2022, Paul reached out to me asking if I thought a 40-year-old veteran could still make some strength gains to leap from V10 to V11 outdoor bouldering.

When he wrote to me, he was getting close to sending one of the few premier lines in the Gunks called Venus in Scorpio, graded V11, which he ultimately sent in the fall of 2022.

If you’d like to learn about Paul’s bouldering training methods, read the post and listen to our recorded conversation.

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beastmaking - a fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber
Reviews

Beastmaking – A fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber – Review

It’s time to review another book from Vertebrate publishing – Beastmaking by Ned Feehally – an excellent climbing training manual. The book is everything a climber needs to start designing training programs and making the most of their climbing. From finger strength and endurance training through injury prevention to skin conditioning and tactics, you’ll find it all here!

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Climber bouldering on Fortunadrago, 8B, Varazze
My Climbers

The 5 best climbs of 2021 in Varazze by Federico Roncagliolo

Federico is the best boulderer I’ve trained so far! In one year of training he improved his bouldering from 8A to 8B! He lives in Italy and his home crag is Varazze – a splendid bouldering area visited by the worlds crème de la crème. Here we present some of his favorite ascents from 2021!

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