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If your progress hit a plateau and you feel like “just climbing” is not enough anymore, it is time you should consider starting some supplementary training. Here you will find detailed descriptions of the most popular training protocols for developing both strength and endurance.

Arm-Lifting finger strength training
Strength Training

The complete guide to Arm-Lifting finger strength training

Arm-Lifting is a recent trend in finger strength training. Initially, it was used for pinch blocks to isolate the thumb more effectively, but soon, climbers realized they could also use this approach for regular edges to spice up their finger strength training!

The best climbing coaches and athletes, including Lattice Training, Tyler Nelson, and Yves Gravelle, use this state-of-the-art training method to build remarkable finger strength. Read the full article to find everything you need to know to incorporate Arm-Lifting into your finer-strength training program and crush harder than ever!

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Warm-up for rock climbing training session

Simple warm-up for beginner and intermediate rock climbers

A good warm-up is vital to an effective climbing training session. Going for longer warm-ups and leveraging them to perform prehab and strengthening exercises is a great way to ensure that you’ll progress as a climber without injuries getting in your way. Read on to learn which exercises are worth doing in the initial minutes of your training and how to order them in the context of the session.

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Blood Flow Restriction Training for Rock Climbing
Strength Training

Fundamentals of Blood Flow Restriction Training for Rock Climbers

Blood Flow Restriction is one of the most recent innovations in climbing training. I discovered this finger strength training method when I listened to the 2021 Nugget Climbing interview with Tyler Nelson . I decided I had to try it and was thrilled with the results. After one training cycle of about 6 – 8 weeks, my 7-second finger strength (MVC-7) measured on a 20 mm edge hit an all-time peak of 124 kg! Moreover, I could repeat this result in 2022 with another BFR cycle! Since then, I’ve been successfully incorporating occlusion training into my finger strength sessions to give my finger strength an edge.

If you want to improve your finger strength with BFR training but are unsure where to begin, this article is for you! And even if you’re already familiar with occlusion cuff training methods, you may still find some exciting tips on better applying it to rock climbing training!

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Endurance Training

Calculate your sport climbing grade with the new Tindeq setting!

Instructional video included!

The Tindeq Progressor is a portable force plate to aid your rock climbing training, and it just got a new feature – Critical Force measurements!

In rock climbing training Critical Force (CF) is a useful way of evaluating forearm endurance. What’s more, based on the models developed by Lattice Training and StrengthClimbing it’s possible to recalculate your Critical Force measurements into your expected sport climbing redpoint grade, find your climbing weaknesses, and optimize your endurance training!

But what’s best is that you don’t even need to invest in a dedicated force plate dynamometer to perform such an analysis. With a bit of creativity, a simple crane scale or even a bathroom scale will do.

To find out more, please read the full article and take your endurance training to the next level!

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Critical force and energy store component plot in climbing aerobic endurance

Climbing Critical Force Calculator 2020

The Critical Force Calculator will help you determine where you stand with your aerobic endurance. It will also allow you to determine the optimum load at which you should train so that you will soon breeze up through those endurance routes!

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Rate of Force Development measurement with the Tindeq Progressor load cell.
Premium Content

All you need to know for perfect RFD measurements with Tindeq Progressor!

Instructional video included!

Rate of Force Development (RFD), often termed contact strength, is a highly critical factor determining your climbing performance.

Knowing your RFD is essential if you want to train effectively and keep progressing as a lead climber or boulderer!

In this article, you’ll find everything you need to know to measure and evaluate and your finger RFD practically with the Tindeq Progressor!

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Premium Content

Sport Climbing Level Calculator – Automatic Climbing Assessment!

The Sport Climbing Level Calculator is a tool designed to automatically evaluate the athlete’s physical sport climbing performance.

The tool evaluates the athlete’s finger strength and endurance and outputs an assessment report with training recommendations tailored to the climber’s performance profile.

Amateur climbers can use the calculator to learn what their sport climbing level should be compared with other similarly strong climbers. Then, using the calculator, the climber can easily design their training plan.

Coaches will find the Sport Climbing Level Calculator helpful in assessing their clients and quickly designing a draft of their training regimen.

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Endurance Repeaters Pyramids climbing endurance protocol
Premium Content

The best hangboard endurance training for rock climbing – Pyramids

Functional spreadsheet with Endurance Repeaters Pyramids training cycle included!

The Endurance Repeaters Pyramids is a very flexible exercise for building aerobic and anaerobic endurance required for high-level sport and trad climbing.

By appropriately controlling the training load and training volume, we can target the following:

  • Lactic capacity
  • Anaerobic threshold
  • Maximum oxygen consumption
  • Aerobic threshold

I’ve been successfully using the Endurance Repeaters Pyramids training method with my clients for years, obtaining significant improvements in Critical Force, which translated directly to sport climbing performance. Please try this technique and let me know your results!

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Ketogenic meal for climbers
Premium Content

Ketogenic diet for rock climbers – pros and cons – review

Climbing is a sport where the strength-to-weight and power-to-weight ratios are critical for success. Therefore, climbers understandably strive to minimize their weight while maintaining lean muscle mass, high performance, and overall well-being.

In this post, I summarize the current scientific knowledge regarding the positive and negative impact of the ketogenic diet on sports and climbing performance.

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Finger strength measurement on a fingerboard
Premium Content

Finger strength measurements for rock climbers made easy!

Instructional video included!

If you’re serious about training for climbing, monitoring your progress, and making the most out of your hangboard training, you need to have a clear finger strength benchmark.

In this article, you’ll find all you need to make accurate and reliable maximum finger strength tests that can later serve as a solid benchmark for designing your own finger strength and forearm endurance training drills and in-depth climbing data analysis.

As a bonus, you’ll also find a super helpful calculator to convert any weighted hang to an MVC-7 measurement and an instructional video to get you step-by-step through the testing process!

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