MVC
Neural output
Increase maximal finger strength
75–95% MVC
5–15 s
2–5 hangs (1 per set)
2–3 min
Notation
MVC-x refers to the maximum load you can hold for x seconds.
Examples:
- MVC-7 → maximum load for 7 seconds
- MVC-10 → maximum load for 10 seconds
- MVC-12 → maximum load for 12 seconds
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Pre-session Recruitment (Execution)
Warm-up
- 1 × 8–10 s @ 70% MVC-10
- 1 × 8–10 s @ 80% MVC-10
Main Work
- Recruitment (low volume): 2–3 × 1 hang (8–10 s) @ 85% MVC-10
- Rest 2–3 min
- Complete all prescribed sets without failure.
Technical Focus
Focus on stable body positioning and efficient force transfer:
- Maintain scapular engagement (depressed, slightly retracted)
- Keep elbows extended or slightly flexed — avoid dynamic pulling
- Apply force progressively, not by jumping onto the hold
- Maintain a fixed grip position throughout the hang
- Avoid compensation (shoulders rising, hips swinging)
- Prioritize full-body tension and stability over added load
Key Rules
Keep intensity high, but controlled:
- Stay within the prescribed range (~80–95% MVC) — no all-out efforts
- Leave a small margin — never train to failure
- Stop the set if position or tension breaks
- Full recovery between sets is mandatory
When to use it
Use when maximal strength is the primary goal:
- Standalone strength session
- Pre-climb recruitment (low volume)
12-Week Progression Model
Organized into three 4-week waves.
Volume increases across blocks while intensity remains fixed at ~80% PL.
Block 1 (Weeks 1–4): Volume Foundation
Increase total sets (5–7).
Focus: Stable force production at prescribed intensity.
Block 2 (Weeks 5–8): Load Consolidation
Maintain moderate–high volume (7–8 sets).
Focus: Consistent output at ~80% PL without fatigue spillover.
Block 3 (Weeks 9–12): Recruitment Emphasis
Increase volume toward upper range (8–10 sets).
Focus: Maximal high-threshold recruitment while preserving movement quality.
After Week 12
Re-test PL and recalculate working loads if Peak Load increased.
Frequency
- 1–2× per week during strength phases
- Perform as a standalone session or first component of the session
- Avoid placing after high-fatigue work
Expected Effects
Over time:
- Increased maximal finger force (Peak Load)
- Improved high-threshold motor unit recruitment
- Better force maintenance across repeated contractions
- Stronger transfer of finger strength to climbing performance
Why This Works
AC-FSR targets high-force output while keeping metabolic fatigue low. This improves maximal finger strength and the ability to apply force effectively during climbing.
Detailed Explanation
For a deeper breakdown of Max Hangs methodology, including variations and underlying principles, see the original article: