Eva López MaxHangs hangboard routine
Trigger neural adaptations efficiently through low volume, short time under tension, and high loads.
MaxHangs MAW-MED 8-week training cycle spreadsheet
Setting up your own training cycle can be challenging, particularly in the case of routines such as the MaxHangs, where it’s necessary to calculate added load, edge depths, and other parameters. That’s why I have created functional Excel spreadsheets for StrengthClimbing registered Premium Users.
All you need to do is register for a 1-month subscription plan and download the Excel spreadsheet. The MaxHangs MAW_MED training spreadsheet features a complete 8-week training plan that consists of 4 weeks of MaxHangs MAW and 4 weeks of MaxHangs MED. You may train various hold positions, from half crimp and full crimp through 3-finger drag, 2-finger pockets, and even pinches.
The training sessions are programmed, and hang loads are calculated automatically, although advanced users will find the spreadsheet easy to customize to modify their training plans. You just need to measure your finger strength based on the step-by-step instructions included, and the rest is done automatically.
And in case you have any additional questions, as a Premium User, you get full technical support. I can also help you customize the training plan according to your goals. On top of that, you get access to all StrengthClimbing Premium Content, including articles, instructional videos, tools, and training programs!
Eva López MaxHangs MED
- Choose an edge on which you can hang for only 6 – 20 seconds.
- Hang for 5 – 15 seconds (leave a 1 – 5-second margin), rest for 3 – 5 minutes.
- Complete 2 – 5 sets.
Eva López MaxHangs MAW
- Choose a grip position to train.
- Add enough weight to be able to hang for only 6 – 20 seconds.
- Hang for 5 – 15 seconds (leave a 1 – 5-second margin), rest for 3 – 5 minutes.
- Complete 2 – 5 sets.
| MaxHangs | |
|---|---|
| Hang test time [s] | 6 - 20 |
| Margin [s] | 1 - 5 |
| MVC-7 load | 75 - 103% |
| Sets | 2 - 5 |
| Hangs/set | 1 |
| Hang time [s] | 5 - 15 |
| Rest betw. sets [min] | 3 - 5 |
| TUT [s] | 10 - 75 |
| Total time [min] | 3 - 21 |
Eva López MaxHangs strength training protocol remarks
- Always warm up properly before doing the MaxHangs hangboard routine.
- Perform three to four sets with increasing added weight or decreasing edge depth (50 – 90% of the previous session’s load) 4.
- The number of MaxHangs sets can be varied between 2 – 5.
- Beginners should start with two sets.
- The hang time can be varied between 5 – 15 seconds.
- Typical hang time: 10 seconds
- The margin is also called the effort level (EL) and may be varied between 1 – 5 seconds 10.
- Leaving a margin leads to similar results as reaching failure, but reduces the risk of injury.
- Typical margin: 3 seconds
- The rest time between sets can be varied between 3 – 5 minutes.
- Typical rest time between sets: 3 minutes
- For the MaxHangs MED protocol, an edge between 5 – 10 mm is usually chosen.
- During each set try to assess the time margin you have left on the hangs.
- If you feel like your margin exceeds 3 – 5 seconds, decrease the edge depth by 1 – 2 mm, according to the perceived effort.
- If you feel like your margin approaches zero, increase the edge depth by 1 – 2 mm, according to the perceived effort.
- During each set try to assess the time margin you have left on the hangs.
- For the MaxHangs MAW protocol, an edge between 8 – 22 mm is usually chosen, but you can do it for any hold.
- Typical added load: 5 – 55 kg
- During each set try to assess the time margin you have left on the hang.
- If you feel like your margin exceeds 3 seconds, add 2 – 5 kg for the next set, depending on bodyweight.
- If you feel like your margin approaches zero, subtract 2 – 5 kg for the next set, depending on bodyweight.
Eva López MaxHangs finger strength training results and discussion
Start with four weeks of MaxHangs MAW, followed by four weeks of MaxHangs MED, to complete a full 8-week cycle and maximize gains.
References
- Eva López Blog (link)
- J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – Hangboard Repeaters, Apr. 8, 2019. (link)
- J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders, May 18, 2019. (link)
- U. Chrobak, Climber Eva López Has a PhD in Finger Strength, Outside Online, Jul. 9, 2018. (link)
- Schoenfeld, B.J., Contreras, B., Krieger, J., Grgic, J., Delcastillo, K., Belliard, R., Alto, A., 2018. Resistance Training Volume Enhances Muscle Hypertrophy but Not Strength in Trained Men. Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise 1. (link)
- Eva López Blog – Maximal hangs, Intermittent Hangs (Repeaters) or a Combination. Which 8-week program is more effective for developing grip strength in rock climbers?, Mar. 14, 2018. (link)
- TransgressionUSA.com (link)
- Fingershinder.com (link)
- Zlagboard.com (link)
- González-Badillo, J.J., & Gorostiaga, E., 1993. Fundamentos del entrenamiento de la fuerza. Aplicación al alto rendimiento deportivo. (link)
- López-Rivera, E., González-Badillo, J.J., 2019. Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers. Journal of Human Kinetics 66, 183–195. (link)
- Eva López Blog – Fingerboard Training Guide (III). Program design and Periodization of MaxHangs, IntHangs and SubHangs. Samples of MaxHangs training programs, Jul. 5, 2018. (link)