Protocol Library → Hangboard Protocols

Hangboard Protocols

Hangboard Protocols use structured loading on fixed edges to develop specific finger strength qualities: maximal strength, repeatable force, and aerobic capacity.

Each method applies a different combination of intensity and density, targeting a distinct adaptation rather than general fatigue.

Max Hangs, Repeaters, and Density Hangs form the foundation of finger training — but they are not interchangeable. Each solves a different problem and should be selected based on your current limitation.

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Finger strength

Max Hangs

High-intensity isometric finger-strength protocol
High-intensity isometric finger training performed using either added load (MAW) or progressively smaller edges (MED) to develop maximal finger strength
Home + Climbing GymHighHangboard + Pulley setup + Weights
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