Primary Goal
Prepare the fingers for hard climbing or finger strength work
PROTOCOL OVERVIEW
Finger strength
System
Peak Load System
Target
Maximal finger-force recruitment
Load
60–80% PL
Tempo
Self-paced. Lift, curl, set down curled, then reset unloaded.
Hand Switch
Per set. Complete all reps on one hand, then switch.
Preparation
Half Crimp: 1 set × 5–10 reps per side (both sides) @ 55–65% PL
Rest 2 min before next stage
Half Crimp: 1 set × 5–10 reps per side (both sides) @ 65–75% PL
Rest 2 min before next stage
Rest 2 min before next stage
Half Crimp: 1 set × 5–10 reps per side (both sides) @ 65–75% PL
Rest 2 min before next stage
Main Work
Half Crimp: 1–2 sets × 3–8 reps per side (both sides) @ 75–85% PL
Rest 2 min between sets
Rest 2 min between sets
Retest
Every training cycle
Duration
~9–19 min
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When to use it
Use weighted block AC-FSR recruitment as part of the Standard Preparation Protocol and before hard bouldering, limit moves, or finger strength work.
The short recruitment dose lets you build up to a strong finger effort while keeping your fingers fresh for the main session.
Preparation
- Warm up your hands, wrists, elbows, and shoulders before loading the fingers.
- Attach a lifting block to a loading pin and place the plates on a stable surface directly beneath your working hand.
Edge, Grip, and Starting Load
- Edge. Choose a familiar edge that keeps your fingertips securely in contact throughout the curl.
- Grip. Check that you can move smoothly from slightly extended fingers to a comfortable half crimp with your thumb relaxed.
- Starting load. Pick a light weight and rehearse the movement. If you already do fixed-grip block lifts, start well below your usual lift weight.
Use the same block, edge depth, and curl range for your Peak Load trials and training sets.
How to Establish Your Peak Load
Before your first recruitment session, establish a technical Peak Load for each hand. This is the heaviest load you can lift, curl, and set down cleanly while still having a little strength in reserve.
- Warm up and start with a load you can curl comfortably.
- Perform one clean rep. Lift the plates just clear of the floor with the fingers slightly extended, curl toward a half crimp, then lower your hand with the fingers still curled. Open the fingers once the plates are fully supported.
- Rest between attempts and increase the weight in small steps. Stop while the rep is still smooth and you have some strength in reserve. If the curl gets shorter or you have to grind through it, use the previous clean load.
- Record the Peak Load for each hand separately, along with the block and edge depth you used.
Calculate your working loads
Finger Strength Repeaters Intensity Calculator
Enter the technical Peak Load you established with the weighted block curl. Calculate the working loads for each hand separately. If a target falls between two loads you can assemble, round down.
60%
kg
70%
kg
80%
kg
Starting Position
- Stand with the load directly below your working hand and the plates supported.
- Place your fingertips on the edge with the fingers slightly extended.
- Set your wrist in a comfortable, steady position. Let the arm hang naturally and take up the slack in the attachment.
Execution
- Lift. With the fingers slightly extended, lift the plates just clear of the floor.
- Curl. With the load suspended, curl the fingers smoothly toward a half crimp. Keep the wrist steady.
- Set down. Keep the fingers curled while you lower the plates to the floor.
- Reset. Once the plates are fully supported, relax and reopen the fingers. Start the next rep when your grip is reset.
- Complete all five reps on one hand, then switch. Start the two-minute rest after both hands are done.
Dosage
- Lift first, then curl. Lift the plates just clear of the floor with your fingers slightly extended. Then curl toward a half crimp.
- Repeat the same range. Keep your wrist steady and finish each curl in the same half-crimp position.
- Set the plates down with your arm. Keep your fingers curled in the same position as you lower your hand. Open your fingers only once the plates are fully supported on the floor.
Important
- Pick a load that lets you complete the lift and return within the two-second work phase.
- Reduce the load if the curl gets shorter, the wrist starts to bend, or you need to lift with the arm or torso.
- Finish with reps in reserve. End the set if you lose control of the movement.
Expected Effects
- A gradual ramp to higher finger forces before the main session.
- Practice producing force smoothly through the active curl.
- Minimal fatigue going into the climbing or strength work that follows.