PROTOCOL OVERVIEW
Anaerobic bridging
System
Power endurance
Target
Power output under fatigue
Primary Goal
Sustain power across linked climbing sequences
Preparation
Standard Preparation Protocol (with AC-FSR or Max Hangs)
Intensity
7–9/10
Terrain
Overhanging System board or Spray wall
Structure
4–8 sets × 45–90 s, ~1:5 work:rest
Rest
~1:5 work:rest
Duration
~9–54 min
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Execution
Peparation
- Standard Preparation Protocol (with AC-FSR or Max Hangs)
Main Work
- Select 2–3 boulder problems
- Climb them as one continuous sequence:
- Problem 1 → downclimb → reposition → Problem 2 → (optional Problem 3)
- Duration per set: ~45–90 s
- Reps: 4–8
- Rest: 1:5 ratio
- Aim to complete or fall near the end
- Maintain consistent difficulty
Technical Focus
Focus on maintaining output under fatigue:
- Maintain high force output despite pump
- Avoid slowing down excessively
- Keep movements decisive and committed
- Maintain technique under fatigue
- Stay focused — avoid hesitation late in the sequence
When to use it
Use when power endurance is the limiting factor:
- Preparation for sustained routes with cruxes late in the sequence
- Anaerobic / power endurance blocks
- When you can do the moves fresh, but fail under fatigue
- When you need to improve power output under fatigue (RFD decay)
Frequency
- 1–2× per week
- Perform as a standalone session or main session focus
- Place on fresh or moderately fresh days
- Avoid scheduling after high-fatigue sessions
Expected Effects
Over time:
- Improved power endurance (ability to sustain hard moves)
- Increased ability to maintain force output under fatigue
- Improved RFD retention late in sequences
- Better performance on sustained, cruxy routes
- Improved ability to execute moves under pump