Primary Goal
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When
Use this protocol:
- before every climbing session
- before finger-strength work
- before hard bouldering or route climbing
- before sessions where high force or coordination will be required
The goal is to arrive at the main session ready, coordinated, and recruited — not fatigued.
Structure
1. General Warm-Up — 2–5 min
Begin with a short general warm-up to increase movement readiness.
- light cardio (e.g. marching in place, Mountain Climbers)
- brief elbow and wrist preparation
- keep the effort easy and non-fatiguing
Use the Elbow & Wrist Preparation protocol for the joint-mobility component.
2. Finger Recruitment — choose one
The aim is to progressively expose the fingers to higher force before climbing.
Option A — AC-FSR
Preferred when a Tindeq or other force-sensor setup is available.
- 1 × 8 @ 60% PL
- 1 × 8 @ 70% PL
- 1–2 × 5 @ 80% PL
Build force smoothly and keep every repetition controlled.
Option B — Max Hangs
Use when a force sensor is not available.
- 1 × 10 s @ 60% MVC-10
- 1 × 10 s @ 70% MVC-10
- 2 × 10 s @ 75–85% MVC-10
Use full recovery between the harder hangs and stay well short of failure.
2a. Modified Finger Loading
If the normal recruitment sequence is not appropriate, use a reduced-load finger protocol instead.
A Tindeq Controlled Isometrics progression may be used, for example:
- 3 × 6 s @ ~30%
- 2 × 6 s @ ~40%
- 4–5 × 10–12 s @ 40–50% PL
Use smooth force build-up and avoid sudden loading.
The aim here is controlled exposure, not recruitment at high force.
3. Shoulder & Scapular Preparation
Choose 2–3 drills depending on the athlete, environment, and session demands.
Options include:
- Scapular Rotations with Side Reach
- Banded Wall Slides + Liftoff
- Wall Angels + Liftoff
- Impulse Activation – Smooth Movement
Keep the volume low. The purpose is to improve control and movement readiness, not to accumulate shoulder fatigue.
4. Integration
Finish with a short exercise that integrates shoulder control with climbing-specific loading.
Preferred option: Clock Feet
Use when a suitable wall or hangboard setup is available.
Alternative: Scapular Pull-ups
Use when Clock Feet cannot be performed.
The goal is to connect finger loading, active shoulder control, and whole-body positioning before moving into actual climbing.
Using This Protocol Outdoors
The same preparation principles apply at the crag, but the available equipment and warm-up terrain may be less predictable.
The approach may provide part of the general warm-up. Finger recruitment can be performed using a portable edge, force sensor, hangboard, or suitable holds on the rock. Shoulder and scapular preparation can be selected according to the equipment available.
For the integration phase, Clock Feet remains the preferred option when a suitable wall or low section of rock is available. Scapular Pull-ups or a short period of controlled easy climbing can be used instead.
Keep the overall volume low. The objective is to arrive at the first serious attempt warm, recruited, coordinated, and fresh, without wasting skin or accumulating unnecessary fatigue.
Dosage
Perform the protocol once before each climbing session.
A typical preparation block should take roughly 10–15 minutes, excluding subsequent easy climbing.
The exact duration depends on:
- finger-recruitment method
- number of shoulder-preparation drills selected
- available equipment
- how much preparation the athlete needs that day
Important
- This protocol is not a training session in itself.
- Its purpose is to prepare the athlete for the main session by progressively increasing force, improving movement control, and integrating the relevant systems without creating meaningful fatigue.
- More exercises are not necessarily better. If the athlete already feels warm, coordinated, and recruited, the preparation block can be shortened.
- The correct endpoint is readiness, not exhaustion.
Expected Effects
- improved readiness for high-force finger loading
- smoother transition into climbing
- improved shoulder and scapular control
- better whole-body coordination
- more consistent movement quality early in the session
- reduced need for long, unstructured warm-ups
- minimal fatigue before the main training stimulus