Protocol LibraryPreparation & Movement Protocols → Preparation Protocol

Preparation Protocol

Pre-Climbing Routine

Purpose

Prepare the body for climbing through activation, coordination, and controlled finger loading

Not sure how to structure your training?

Turn these protocols into a complete training system

Instant access • Premium included • Lifetime updates

When

  • Before every climbing session

Structure

1. General Warm-Up (2–3 min)
2. Finger recruitment (choose one)

Option AAC-FSR

  • 1 × 8 @ 60% PL
  • 1 × 8 @ 70% PL
  • 1–2 × 5 @ 80% PL

Option BMax Hangs

  • 1 × 10 sec @ 60% MVC-10
  • 1 × 10 sec @ 70% MVC-10
  • 2 × 10 sec @ 75–85% MVC-10
2a. If managing finger irritation (replace above):

Tindeq Controlled Isometrics

  • 3 × 6 s @ ~30% (rest 30–45 s)
  • 2 × 6 s @ ~40% (rest 45–60 s)
  • 4–5 × 1 (10–12 s) @ 40–50% PL
Use this instead of Option A/B if:
  • finger pain, sensitivity, or recent flare-up
  • returning after time off due to finger issue
Focus on smooth force build-up, no sudden loading. Rule: no pain during, no increase in sensitivity the next day

4. Integration

Key cues

  • Movement remains controlled and deliberate
  • No excessive fatigue before climbing
  • Breathing remains calm throughout
  • Focus on quality of movement, not intensity

Dosage

  • Perform once before each climbing session

Important

  • Do not rush — maintain control in each phase
  • Adjust intensity based on the main session goal
  • The goal is preparation, not fatigue
StrengthClimbing Tools

Performance Assessment Tools

Assess finger strength, endurance and monitor your progress over time.

Featured Program
ABEP Aerobic Base Expansion Program
Strong fingers — but still getting pumped?
Get ABEP Lifetime Access
All premium site features included Lifetime access and updates
Almost there...

Get updates on upcoming posts