Primary Goal
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Execution
Preparation
Complete the Standard Preparation Protocol, then perform progressively harder climbing until you are ready for high-quality attempts on the target route.
Main Work
- Select one target route appropriate to your current level
- Use early attempts to refine beta, clipping positions, rests, pacing, and crux sequences
- Work difficult sections individually when needed, then progressively build longer links
- Treat serious attempts as high-quality efforts rather than accumulating volume
- Rest 10–30 min between hard burns, depending on attempt length and fatigue
- Stop when movement quality, skin, power, or decision-making clearly deteriorates
Intensity
Hard Route Effort
Attempts should be difficult enough to challenge current performance while still allowing useful movement practice, beta refinement, and repeatable high-quality climbing.
Redpoint Effort
Full redpoint attempts may approach maximal session effort, but not every attempt needs to be an all-out burn.
The goal is repeated high-quality route performance, not accumulating fatigue or failed attempts.
Technical Focus
- Refine efficient beta rather than simply trying harder
- Identify reliable clipping positions, rests, and pacing strategies
- Rehearse crux sequences until movement becomes predictable
- Reduce unnecessary grip force and inefficient movement
- Build progressively longer links around the key failure points
- Use failed attempts diagnostically: identify whether failure came from beta, pacing, power, endurance, or execution
- Preserve movement quality rather than accumulating low-quality burns
When to use it
Use Indoor Lead Projecting when route-specific performance is the priority and you have a target route difficult enough to require repeated attempts or multiple sessions.
Particularly useful when:
- preparing for a specific indoor route or performance goal
- beta and movement execution are major limitations
- you need to improve linking between difficult sections
- pacing or rest strategy limits redpoint performance
- you want to transfer finger strength, power, and endurance into complete-route performance
Frequency
- Typically 1–2× per week
- Allow substantial recovery before another high-intensity climbing session
- Reduce frequency when projecting sessions become especially long or demanding
- Separate hard projecting days if finger, skin, or whole-body recovery is incomplete
Expected Effects
- Improved route-specific beta and movement efficiency
- Longer and more reliable links
- Better pacing and use of rests
- Improved execution of crux sequences under fatigue
- Greater confidence and consistency on the target route
- Better transfer of strength and endurance into redpoint performance
- Increased probability of completing progressively harder routes