1 set × 5–10 reps @ 70% PL
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Execution
Warm-up
- 1 × 8 @ 60% PL
- 1 × 8 @ 70% PL
Main Work
- Recruitment (low volume): 1–2 × 5 @ 80% PL
- Complete all prescribed sets without failure.
Execution
Warm-up
- 1 × 8 @ 60% PL
- 1 × 8 @ 70% PL
Main Work
- Recruitment (low volume): 1 × 5 @ 80% PL
- Strength Cycle Progression: 5–10 × 5 @ 80% PL
- Complete all prescribed sets without failure.
Technical Focus
Focus on precise and repeatable force production:
- Apply smooth, controlled force without spikes
- Keep output consistent across all reps
- Avoid compensatory tension in shoulders and body
- Maintain stable grip position and engagement
- Prioritize quality over total volume
When to use it
Use when strength is the primary quality of the session.
- Standalone strength session
- Pre-climb recruitment (low volume)
12-Week Progression Model
Organized into three 4-week waves.
Volume increases across blocks while intensity remains fixed at ~80% PL.
Block 1 (Weeks 1–4): Volume Foundation
Increase total sets (5–7).
Focus: Stable force production at prescribed intensity.
Block 2 (Weeks 5–8): Load Consolidation
Maintain moderate–high volume (7–8 sets).
Focus: Consistent output at ~80% PL without fatigue spillover.
Block 3 (Weeks 9–12): Recruitment Emphasis
Increase volume toward upper range (8–10 sets).
Focus: Maximal high-threshold recruitment while preserving movement quality.
After Week 12
Re-test PL and recalculate working loads if Peak Load increased.
Frequency
- 1–2 × per week during strength phases
- Perform as a standalone session or first component of the session
- Avoid placing after high-fatigue work
Expected Effects
Over time:
- Increased maximal finger force (Peak Load)
- Improved high-threshold motor unit recruitment
- Better force maintenance across repeated contractions
- Stronger transfer of finger strength to climbing performance