Protocol Library → Force-Measured Protocols

Force-Measured Protocols

These protocols are used to structure climbing training based on measured force output.

Force-Measured Protocols use load-cell devices (e.g., Tindeq Progressor or similar tools) to prescribe intensity as a percentage of measured force.

Because load is anchored to individual Peak Load and Critical Force values, intensity becomes precise, repeatable, and objectively trackable over time.

The protocols target distinct performance qualities: maximal strength, sustainable force (endurance), and aerobic capacity.

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Finger strength

AC-FSR — Recruitment

Active Curl Finger Strength Repeaters — Recruitment
Low-volume recruitment protocol to prepare maximal finger-force output before climbing or strength work.
Home + Climbing Gym + CragHighForce sensor + Lifting edge
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Critical Force work

AC-CFR

Active Curl Critical Force Repeaters
Develop Critical Force and repeatable submaximal finger force. Can also be used as a controlled substitute for sustained route climbing when suitable lead or autobelay training is unavailable.
HomeMediumForce sensor + Lifting edge
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Aerobic base work

AC-AR

Active Curl Aerobic Repeaters
Build aerobic capacity, perfusion, recovery, and repeatability below Critical Force.
HomeLowForce sensor + Lifting edge
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