Protocol Library → Force-Measured Protocols

Force-Measured Protocols

These protocols are used to structure climbing training based on measured force output.

Force-Measured Protocols use load-cell devices (e.g., Tindeq Progressor or similar tools) to prescribe intensity as a percentage of measured force.

Because load is anchored to individual Peak Load and Critical Force values, intensity becomes precise, repeatable, and objectively trackable over time.

The protocols target distinct performance qualities: maximal strength, sustainable force (endurance), and aerobic capacity.

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Finger strength

AC-FSR — Recruitment

Active Curl Finger Strength Repeaters — Recruitment
Low-volume recruitment protocol to prepare maximal finger-force output before climbing or strength work.
Location Home + Climbing Gym + CragIntensity HighEquipment Force sensor + Lifting edge
Critical Force work

AC-CFR

Active Curl Critical Force Repeaters
Develop Critical Force and repeatable submaximal finger force. Can also be used as a controlled substitute for sustained route climbing when suitable lead or autobelay training is unavailable.
Location HomeIntensity Medium–HighEquipment Force sensor + Lifting edge
Aerobic base work

AC-AR

Active Curl Aerobic Repeaters
Build aerobic capacity, perfusion, recovery, and repeatability below Critical Force.
Location HomeIntensity Low–MediumEquipment Force sensor + Lifting edge
StrengthClimbing Tools

Performance Assessment Tools

Assess finger strength, endurance and monitor your progress over time.

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ABEP Aerobic Base Expansion Program
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