Primary Goal
Integrate scapular stability with finger loading
PROTOCOL OVERVIEW
Integration work
System
Climbing-Specific Finger Strength Integration
Target
Pre-climbing finger strength application and coordination on climbing holds
Preparation
Standard Preparation Protocol
Intensity
~5/10 effort — technical focus, not fatigue
Terrain
System board, spray wall, or hangboard with footholds if no wall is available
Duration
~5 min
Structure
3 × 15 s, ~2 min rest
Rest
~2 min between sets
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Execution
Warm-up
- General climbing warm-up (increase body temperature, prepare joints)
- Wall Angels + Liftoff, Scapular Rotations with Side Reach
- Clock Feet are typically part of the Standard Preparation Protocol
Main Work
- Place both hands on two fixed handholds on the wall
- If at home, you may use a hangboard with some footholds instead
- Keep hands on the holds for the entire set
- Move only the feet in a controlled “clock pattern”
Set 1 – easy holds
- Feet: 9:00 → 6:00 → 3:00 → 6:00 → 9:00
Set 2 – medium holds
- Feet: 3:00 → 6:00 → 9:00 → 6:00 → 3:00
Set 3 – smaller / poorer holds
- Feet: 9:00 → 6:00 → 3:00 → 6:00 → 9:00
- Rest ~2 min between sets
- Movement must remain smooth and controlled (no jerking)
Technical Focus
Focus on precise and controlled integration:
- Stable shoulder position (scapula “set”, not floating)
- Relaxed neck and upper traps
- Calm, minimal grip engagement
- Precise, deliberate foot placement
- Continuous body tension through movement
Each repetition should feel controlled, quiet, and efficient.
When to use it
Use as a regular coordination and shoulder–grip integration drill:
- Early in most climbing sessions (activation / priming)
- After Scapular Activation
- During technical-focused sessions
- When addressing instability or overgripping tendencies
Frequency
- 1× per climbing session
- Performed early, after warm-up and Scapular Activation
- Skip if replaced by Wall Crawls
Expected Effects
- Improved shoulder stability during finger loading
- Better coordination between grip and body position
- Reduced unnecessary grip tension
- Smoother force transfer from feet → body → hands
- More efficient and controlled movement on the wall