Primary Goal
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Execution
Warm-up
- Standard Preparation Protocol (with AC-FSR or Max Hangs)
Main Work
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Perform controlled climbing on small holds:
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Choose small handholds and large, secure footholds
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Move slowly and deliberately
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Perform ~5–6 moves per set
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Stop the set before loss of control
Technical Focus
Focus on precise and coordinated force application:
- Quiet feet and stable hips
- Consistent shoulder engagement
- Even force distribution across fingers
- Active adaptation to different hold types
Each move should feel controlled, repeatable, and precise.
When to use it
Use when improving finger coordination and movement quality is the priority:
After hangboard strength development (AC-FSR, max hangs)
During strength or aerobic phases as a low-fatigue neural stimulus
Within board sessions focused on precision rather than limit performance
Frequency
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1× per week during strength or aerobic phases
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Typically placed early in the climbing session
Expected Effects
Improved intermuscular coordination of the fingers
Better force distribution across varied hold types
Increased precision on small or poor grips
Improved finger recruitment during climbing movement
More controlled and efficient movement under tension
Better transfer of finger strength to on-wall performance