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Execution
Warm-up
- Standard Preparation Protocol (with AC-FSR or Max Hangs)
Main Work
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Perform controlled climbing on small holds:
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Choose small handholds and large, secure footholds
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Move slowly and deliberately
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Perform ~5–6 moves per set
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Stop the set before loss of control
Technical Focus
Focus on precise and coordinated force application:
- Quiet feet and stable hips
- Consistent shoulder engagement
- Even force distribution across fingers
- Active adaptation to different hold types
Each move should feel controlled, repeatable, and precise.
When to use it
Use when improving finger coordination and movement quality is the priority:
After hangboard strength development (AC-FSR, max hangs)
During strength or aerobic phases as a low-fatigue neural stimulus
Within board sessions focused on precision rather than limit performance
Frequency
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1× per week during strength or aerobic phases
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Typically placed early in the climbing session
Expected Effects
Over time:
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Improved intermuscular coordination of the fingers
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Better force distribution across varied hold types
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Increased precision on small or poor grips
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Improved finger recruitment during climbing movement
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More controlled and efficient movement under tension
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Better transfer of finger strength to on-wall performance