Rest 2 min before next stage
Preparation 70% · Half Crimp: 1 set × 5–10 reps per side (both sides) @ 65–75% PL
Rest 2 min before next stage
Rest 2 min between sets
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Calculate your working loads
Use the Peak Load measured for each hand in the same grip and testing setup. Calculate the left and right targets separately.
The calculator shows the default targets of 60%, 70% and 80% PL. Your prescription may allow a range around each target.
Execution
Complete a general warm-up and a few easy finger pulls before starting the preparation sets.
Preparation
- Set 1: 8 repetitions per hand at approximately 60% PL.
- Set 2: 8 repetitions per hand at approximately 70% PL.
The Planner allows 5–10 repetitions within the respective 55–65% and 65–75% PL ranges. Eight repetitions is the default.
Main work
- 5–10 sets × 5 repetitions per hand at approximately 80% PL.
- The available prescription range is 4–6 repetitions at 75–85% PL.
- Apply force for 2 seconds, then release for 4 seconds.
- Complete the repetitions on one hand, then switch. A complete set includes both hands.
Recovery: allow approximately 2 minutes before working the same hand again. Time spent working the opposite hand contributes to that recovery.
Begin with five main-work sets. Complete each repetition with controlled force and consistent technique; avoid training to failure.
Technical Focus
- Build force smoothly: take up slack before each pull and avoid jerking into the target.
- Control the target: maintain the prescribed force during the working interval, then release fully.
- Keep the position consistent: use the same grip, edge and arm position throughout the set.
- Keep the rest of the body quiet: avoid leaning, shrugging or changing position to increase the reading.
- Finish while quality remains: end the set if you can no longer reproduce the target with the intended technique.
Progression over 8–10 Weeks
Increase the amount of good-quality work gradually. Set count is the main progression variable; keep repetitions near five and intensity near 80% PL initially.
Establish your starting volume
Begin with five main-work sets. Repeat this dose until you can maintain the target and technique throughout, while recovering adequately before your next demanding session.
Build within the range
Add one set at a time when the current dose is well tolerated. You may work towards 6–8 sets, and potentially 9–10 when appropriate for your programme and recovery.
Ten sets is an upper limit, not a compulsory destination. Do not increase set count, repetitions and intensity together. Hold the dose steady or reduce it when the added work compromises subsequent training.
Deload and reassess
Follow the deload periods in your training cycle, reducing main-work volume rather than trying to maintain the highest set count. Resume from a previously manageable dose afterwards.
At the end of the 8–10-week block, retest Peak Load after adequate recovery. Use the same testing setup and calculate new working targets from the updated result for each hand.
When to use it
Use AC-FSR — Progression when developing finger strength is a main priority of your training cycle.
- As the main exercise in a dedicated finger-strength session.
- Before a controlled climbing or integration session, with the remaining workload adjusted accordingly.
- When you want measurable force targets and a repeatable progression in training volume.
This is a strength-training block, not a warm-up. For a brief preparation before climbing, use AC-FSR — Recruitment instead.
Frequency and Session Placement
Plan 1–2 sessions per week, according to the climbing and finger-strength work already included in your programme.
Start with one weekly session when introducing the protocol. A second session should fit within your existing workload and recovery, rather than being added automatically.
- Perform the protocol while sufficiently fresh to control the prescribed force.
- Avoid placing it after exhausting climbing or finger training.
- Account for Limit Bouldering, Max Hangs and other demanding finger work when arranging the week.
- Reduce or omit overlapping finger-strength exercises when this protocol supplies the main strength stimulus.
Expected Effects
The aim is to improve finger strength and your ability to reproduce controlled, high-force contractions.
Track progress through the work you can complete with consistent technique and through repeat Peak Load tests under comparable conditions. Completing more sets demonstrates greater tolerated training volume; an increase in tested Peak Load provides clearer evidence of improved maximal force.
Continue climbing practice alongside the protocol so you can apply your strength through effective movement and technique.