These protocols are used to structure climbing training based on measured force output.
Weighted Block Protocols train climbing-specific finger strength using a lifting block, loading pin, and weight plates.
The block can be used for active finger curls, where the fingers move under load, or fixed-grip lifts, where the fingers hold the same position throughout the rep.
Each protocol explains how to choose an edge, set your grip, and select a working load for each hand. When loads are prescribed as a percentage of Peak Load, use the reference you establish with that same block, edge, and movement.
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Finger strength
AC-FSR — Weighted Block Recruitment
Active Curl Finger Strength Repeaters — Recruitment with Free Weights
Short finger recruitment protocol using a lifting block and plates. Perform controlled, self-paced active curls before hard climbing or strength work.
Home + Climbing GymHighLifting edge + Weights
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