Primary Goal
Increase Critical Force and improve repeated submaximal force production
PROTOCOL OVERVIEW
Critical Force work
System
Anaerobic System
Target
Sustainable force capacity
Load
60% CF / 80% CF
Tempo
7 s ON / 3 s OFF
Hand Switch
Per set
Preparation
AC-FSR–Recruitment
Main Work
Stage 1: 1 set × 24 reps @ 60% CF
Rest 10 min before next stage
Stage 2: 1 set × 24 reps @ 80% CF
Rest 10 min before next stage
Stage 2: 1 set × 24 reps @ 80% CF
Rest
~10 min between sets
Retest
Every block
Progression
Increase from 1 → 3 sets across the training cycle
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Calculate your working loads
Critical Force Repeaters Intensity Calculator
Enter your measured 4-minute Critical Force (CF) to calculate working loads.
60%
kg
70%
kg
80%
kg
Execution
Warm-up
- 1–2 min of light rubber ball squeezing to increase blood flow
- A few easy contractions on the hold
Main Work
- 2–3 × 24–36 @ 60–80% CF
- Rest between sets: 5–10 min
Intensity Zones
60–70% CF
- More aerobic stimulus / repeatability
70–80% CF
- Closer to CF / fatigue resistance
Technical Focus
Focus on smooth, controlled force production:
- Apply steady, controlled force without spikes
- Keep output consistent across all reps
- Avoid compensatory tension in shoulders and body
- Maintain stable grip and engagement
- Prioritize efficiency over maximal effort
When to use it
Use when sustainable finger force is the primary limitation:
- Forearms pump before technical failure
- Difficulty maintaining grip during longer sequences
- High Peak Load but low Critical Force (low CF / PL ratio)
Particularly useful during capacity-building phases.
Frequency
- 1× per week during capacity or endurance phases
- Perform as a standalone session or after low-intensity climbing
- Avoid placing before high-intensity or strength sessions
Expected Effects
- Increased Critical Force (CF)
- Improved ability to sustain finger force over time
- Delayed onset of forearm pump
- Better performance on longer sequences and routes