Primary Goal
Finger recruitment before climbing training
PROTOCOL OVERVIEW
Finger strength
System
Peak Load System
Target
Maximal finger-force recruitment
Load
60–80% PL
Tempo
2 s ON / 4 s OFF
Hand Switch
Per set
Preparation
Preparation 60% · Half Crimp: 1 set × 5–10 reps per side (both sides) @ 55–65% PL
Rest 2 min before next stage
Preparation 70% · Half Crimp: 1 set × 5–10 reps per side (both sides) @ 65–75% PL
Rest 2 min before next stage
Rest 2 min before next stage
Preparation 70% · Half Crimp: 1 set × 5–10 reps per side (both sides) @ 65–75% PL
Rest 2 min before next stage
Main Work
Recruitment 80% · Half Crimp: 1–2 sets × 3–8 reps per side (both sides) @ 75–85% PL
Rest 2 min between sets
Rest 2 min between sets
Retest
Every block
Duration
~7–13 min
Tindeq code
OBYR
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60%
kg
70%
kg
80%
kg
When to use it
Use when strength is the primary quality of the session.
- Standalone strength session
- Pre-climb recruitment (low volume)
Execution
Warm-up
- 1 × 8 @ 60% PL
- 1 × 8 @ 70% PL
Main Work
- Recruitment (low volume): 1–2 × 5 @ 80% PL
- Complete all prescribed sets without failure.
Technical Focus
Focus on precise and repeatable force production:
- Apply smooth, controlled force without spikes
- Keep output consistent across all reps
- Avoid compensatory tension in shoulders and body
- Maintain stable grip position and engagement
- Prioritize quality over total volume
Frequency
- 1–2 × per week during strength phases
- Perform as a standalone session or first component of the session
- Avoid placing after high-fatigue work
Expected Effects
Over time:
- Increased maximal finger force (Peak Load)
- Improved high-threshold motor unit recruitment
- Better force maintenance across repeated contractions
- Stronger transfer of finger strength to climbing performance
EXERCISE DEMONSTRATION