Primary Goal
Maintain load exposure while improving tissue tolerance in a pain-free range
PROTOCOL OVERVIEW
Tendon / tissue capacity
System
Tendon / tissue capacity
Target
Finger flexor tendons and ligament–capsule complex
Preparation
3 × 6 s @ ~30% PL
3 × 6 s @ ~40% PL
3 × 6 s @ ~40% PL
Main Work
3–6 sets × 10–15 s per side (both sides; switch sides, then rest) @ 30–60% PL
while keeping pain at 0–2/10 and force output stable
while keeping pain at 0–2/10 and force output stable
Structure
3–6 sets × 10–15 s per side (both sides; switch sides, then rest)
Rest
60–120 s between sets
Duration
~3–13 min
Progression
Progress from ~35% toward 60% PL while keeping pain at 0–2/10 and force output stable.
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Execution
Warm-up
- 1–2 min of light rubber ball squeezing to increase blood flow
- A few easy contractions on the hold
Ramp-up
- 3 × 6 s @ ~30% PL (rest 30–45 s)
- 3 × 6 s @ ~40% PL (rest 45–60 s)
Main Work
- 4–5 × 10–12 s @ 40–60% PL
- Rest: 90–120 s after each hold
Technical Focus
- Scapula set, shoulder stable
- Smooth force application (no sudden loading)
- No pressing into pain
- Calm breathing
Stop / Modify Criteria
- Pain > 2/10 → reduce load or shorten duration
- Pain increases across sets → stop early
- Pain worse next day → reduce load by ~10% or pause 48–72 h
When to use it
Use as a tendon-focused loading protocol:
- During injury or early return-to-load phases
- When reintroducing load after finger irritation
- As a bridge before returning to higher-intensity strength work (e.g. AC-FSR)
- During high-load phases to maintain tissue tolerance
Frequency
- 2–3 × per week
- Can be performed on climbing days or separate sessions
Expected Effects
Over time:
- Improved tendon load tolerance
- Reduced pain sensitivity under load
- More stable force application
- Safer transition back to strength training