TRAINING
If your progress hit a plateau and you feel like “just climbing” is not enough anymore, it is time you should consider starting some supplementary training. Here you will find detailed descriptions of the most popular training protocols for developing both strength and endurance.
Eric Hörst’s “7-53” finger strength training program (case study)
This article presents the results of an 8-week hangboard training cycle based on Eric Hörst’s Maximum Weight “7-53” protocol. In just two months, Carson improved his finger strength by 17% relative to body weight. Read the full article to see the structure and results of the program.
Hangboard Training Program Results – José Antonio
José Antonio is a highly motivated climber from Mexico who likes both lead climbing and bouldering alike. When José Antonio and I met in June, he’d been climbing for over three years, and his personal best was 5.12a/7a+. After two months of following the program, he quickly sent his first two 5.12b/7b routes, and he’s hungry for more!
9 Powerful Reasons to Warm-Up for Rock Climbers (Review)
In this post, you will learn 9 powerful reasons why it’s critical that you do a good warm-up before beginning any kind of rock climbing activity. Based on a vast literature search, I review and examine the most vital physiological mechanisms associated with the warm-up. From increased blood flow through postactivation potentiation (aka “recruitment”) to stretching, all these effects are essential to maximizing short-term and long-term performance and preventing injuries. After reading this post, you will think twice the next time you feel like skipping the warm-up!
Eric Hörsts “7-53” Hangboard Maximalkraft-Protokoll
Das „7-53“-Hangboard-Protokoll von Eric Hörst ist eine zeiteffiziente Methode zur Verbesserung der Maximalkraft an kleinen Griffen. Es kombiniert Elemente von 7/3-Repeaters und MaxHangs und eignet sich besonders für fortgeschrittene Kletterer. Mit diesem Protokoll steigerte Eric sein Zusatzgewicht an einer 14-mm-Leiste von 22,5 kg auf 41 kg.
Rock Climbing Performance Assessment: Highly Advanced 5.13c (8a+)
This is an example of an actual rock climbing performance assessment of a highly advanced climber, whose goal is to break into 5.14 grades (8b+). Here you will find a thorough analysis of the climber’s strength and endurance profile, together with relevant charts and a detailed evaluation of the climbing performance.
The Climbing Bible – Review
“The Climbing Bible” is the most recent release by Vertebrate Publishing. In the book you’ll find everything you need to get you started as a climber and hundreds of high-quality photos to get you psyched for training and sending hard. Although the book is more suitable for beginners, advanced crushers might also find it helpful, particularly concerning mental training and tactical aspects. Check out the detailed review to find out more.
Hangboard Training Program Results – Piotr
Piotr is an extremely motivated and experienced lead climber, who excels at crimpy slabs and vertical walls. He lives in Mexico, where he has access to vast areas of high-quality virgin rock, which allows him to bolt his own new lines. After solidifying his 5.13a/7c+ level, Piotr is firmly on his way to sending his first 5.13b/8a!
Hangboard Training Program Results – Sam
Samantha is a super experienced lead climber, who has traveled worldwide and climbed rocks on almost every continent. She likes climbing bouldery routes, with short cruxes and good rests in between, but since her aerobic endurance is excellent, she can comfortably project longer routes as well. Her goal in 2021? Simple – send 5.13c and beyond!
Hangboard Training Program Results – Daniele
Daniele is a powerful all-round climber who specializes in bouldering but is also successful in sport climbing. He’s had a great summer so far, and he managed to set personal bests in both bouldering and lead climbing. His most spectacular achievement in 2020 was climbing Souvenir 8A in Chironico, which was set by Fred Nicole.
Hangboard Training Program Results – Jędrzej
I’m currently developing and testing my own Experimental Hangboard Training Program that’s based on cutting edge climbing research. The program is addressed to both boulderers and lead climbers, and the training sessions are tailored to fit the climbers’ current goals and climbing schedules.
A group of climbers agreed to participate in the experiment by following the prescribed training protocols and undergoing periodic assessments to test their progress. Here you can find the regularly updated details of my progress.
Personal Hangboard Training Program – Results
I’m currently developing and testing my own Experimental Hangboard Training Program that’s based on cutting edge climbing research. The program is addressed to both boulderers and lead climbers, and the training sessions are tailored to fit the climbers’ current goals and climbing schedules.
A group of climbers agreed to participate in the experiment by following the prescribed training protocols and undergoing periodic assessments to test their progress. Here you can find a ranking with the most recent test results of all the climbers following the program.
Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer Classic
The Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer 2.0 is here — now with one-arm testing, added-load intensity calculations, height/arm span analysis, pull-up metrics, BMI evaluation, training-mode selection, and a much more detailed performance assessment. Refined using community data and extensive research, the Analyzer helps you identify your biggest performance limitations and training priorities.