Search
Close this search box.

TRAINING

If your progress hit a plateau and you feel like “just climbing” is not enough anymore, it is time you should consider starting some supplementary training. Here you will find detailed descriptions of the most popular training protocols for developing both strength and endurance.

Strength Training

Eric Hörsts “7-53” Hangboard Maximalkraft-Protokoll

Das “7-53” Hangboard Maximalkraft-Protokoll ist eine hocheffektive Krafttrainingsmethode, die von Eric Hörst als etwas zwischen dem klassischen 7/3-Repeater-Protokoll und Eva López MaxHangs entwickelt wurde. Dieses sehr zeiteffiziente Protokoll ist der Mittelweg zwischen Kraft- und Kraftausdauertraining und wird für mittlere und fortgeschrittene Kletterer empfohlen. Mit dieser Methode stieg Eric auf einer 14-mm-Kante von 22,5 kg auf 41 kg Zusatzgewicht, und es ist sein bevorzugtes Hangboard-Protokoll!

Read More »
Sport Level Climbing Assessment body weight endurance curve
Assessments

Rock Climbing Performance Assessment: Highly Advanced 5.13c (8a+)

This is an example of an actual rock climbing performance assessment of a highly advanced climber, whose goal is to break into 5.14 grades (8b+). Here you will find a thorough analysis of the climber’s strength and endurance profile, together with relevant charts and a detailed evaluation of the climbing performance.

Read More »
The Climbing Bible Review
Reviews

The Climbing Bible – Review

“The Climbing Bible” is the most recent release by Vertebrate Publishing. In the book you’ll find everything you need to get you started as a climber and hundreds of high-quality photos to get you psyched for training and sending hard. Although the book is more suitable for beginners, advanced crushers might also find it helpful, particularly concerning mental training and tactical aspects. Check out the detailed review to find out more.

Read More »
My Climbers

Hangboard Training Program Results – Piotr

Piotr is an extremely motivated and experienced lead climber, who excels at crimpy slabs and vertical walls. He lives in Mexico, where he has access to vast areas of high-quality virgin rock, which allows him to bolt his own new lines. After solidifying his 5.13a/7c+ level, Piotr is firmly on his way to sending his first 5.13b/8a!

Read More »
My Climbers

Hangboard Training Program Results – Sam

Samantha is a super experienced lead climber, who has traveled worldwide and climbed rocks on almost every continent. She likes climbing bouldery routes, with short cruxes and good rests in between, but since her aerobic endurance is excellent, she can comfortably project longer routes as well. Her goal in 2021? Simple – send 5.13c and beyond!

Read More »
My Climbers

Hangboard Training Program Results – Daniele

Daniele is a powerful all-round climber who specializes in bouldering but is also successful in sport climbing. He’s had a great summer so far, and he managed to set personal bests in both bouldering and lead climbing. His most spectacular achievement in 2020 was climbing Souvenir 8A in Chironico, which was set by Fred Nicole.

Read More »
experimental hangboard training program for finger strength and forearm endurance
Training

Hangboard Training Program Results – Jędrzej

I’m currently developing and testing my own Experimental Hangboard Training Program that’s based on cutting edge climbing research. The program is addressed to both boulderers and lead climbers, and the training sessions are tailored to fit the climbers’ current goals and climbing schedules.

A group of climbers agreed to participate in the experiment by following the prescribed training protocols and undergoing periodic assessments to test their progress. Here you can find the regularly updated details of my progress.

Read More »
experimental hangboard training program for finger strength and forearm endurance
Training

Personal Hangboard Training Program – Results

I’m currently developing and testing my own Experimental Hangboard Training Program that’s based on cutting edge climbing research. The program is addressed to both boulderers and lead climbers, and the training sessions are tailored to fit the climbers’ current goals and climbing schedules.

A group of climbers agreed to participate in the experiment by following the prescribed training protocols and undergoing periodic assessments to test their progress. Here you can find a ranking with the most recent test results of all the climbers following the program.

Read More »
climbing finger strength analyzer
Tools

Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer 2.0

The Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer 2.0 is finally here! This version is significantly improved compared to the initial one. New features include:

  • Height and Arm span module
  • Possibility to select your current training mode
  • Testing with one-arm hangs
  • Intensity expressed in terms of added load
  • Auxiliary Pull-ups module
  • Evaluation of your BMI
  • Detailed written assessment of your performance, together with suggestions on what to do to progress

I did extensive research, analyzed results reported by climbers on various fora, and went through the entire r/climbharder survey from 2017 to fine-tune the algorithm. In the post below the Analyzer app, you will find some cool sample input sets, which you can use for testing.


Try to get creative with the Analyzer and pinpoint your weaknesses! Remember, always warm up before you train!

Read More »
Mtoda 7-53 trening siły palców chwytotablica wspinaczka
Strength Training

Metoda “7-53” Erica Hörsta – trening wspinaczkowy siły palców na chwytotablicy

Opracowana przez Erica Hörsta metoda “7-53” jest bardzo skutecznym sposobem trenowania siły maksymalnej palców na chwytotablicy. Ten protokół treningowy jest czymś pomiędzy standardową metodą 7/3 Repeaters a metodą MaxHangs Evy López. Ten wydajny czasowo protokół łączy w sobie elementy treningu czysto siłowego oraz treningu wytrzymałości siłowej i zalecany jest średnio zaawansowanym i zaawansowanym wspinaczom. Dzięki wieloletniemu treningowi przy użyciu metody “7-53” Eric Hörst zwiększył dodatkowe obciążenie z którym ćwiczy na krawądce 14 mm z 22.5 kg do 41 kg i jest to nadal jego ulubiony sposób trenowania siły palców!

Read More »
8-month climbing hangboard finger strength training progress Bechtel's 3-6-9 Ladders strengthclimbing
Strength Training

8-month Hangboard Finger Strength Training Program Results

In this post, I describe the results of my eight-month hangboard finger strength training program with Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders routine. My goal was to verify how much I can progress my absolute and relative finger strength while undergoing a weight loss intervention, and under conditions of chronic sleep deprivation.
With the program, I increased my MVC-7 HC 20 absolute strength from 108 kg to 116 kg. During the last training cycle, I managed to reduce my body weight from 65.5 kg to 61 kg through Intermittent Fasting and Low Carbohydrate/Keto Diet. As a result, I increased my relative finger strength from 163.5% to 190%, allowing me to improve from the 7A benchmark to 7B benchmark level on the Moonboard Masters 2017 hold setup. Go ahead and find out the details!

Read More »
Endurance Training

Eric Hörst Hangboard Moving Hangs climbing training endurance protocol

The Hangboard Moving Hangs (HMH) climbing training protocol was described by Eric Hörst in his book Conditioning for Climbers. Because the intensity of the exercise is rather low, even beginner climbers with a couple of months of training under their belt can give it a try.

The Hangboard Moving Hangs climbing training protocol is a perfect introduction to hangboarding, because it’s safe, it puts less strain on the shoulders than typical dead hangs, and it’s easy to do. This routine is a powerful and versatile technique for developing forearm endurance, and it is worth including in any climber’s training portfolio! I started hangboarding with the Hangboard Moving Hangs climbing endurance protocol myself, and I would recommend it to both beginners and advanced climbers.

Read More »
Almost there...

Get updates on upcoming posts