TRAINING
If your progress hit a plateau and you feel like “just climbing” is not enough anymore, it is time you should consider starting some supplementary training. Here you will find detailed descriptions of the most popular training protocols for developing both strength and endurance.
The 5 best climbs of 2021 in Varazze by Federico Roncagliolo
Federico is the best boulderer I’ve trained so far! In one year of training he improved his bouldering from 8A to 8B! He lives in Italy and his home crag is Varazze – a splendid bouldering area visited by the worlds crème de la crème. Here we present some of his favorite ascents from 2021!
Dr. Tyler Nelson’s Density Hangs Finger Training for Rock Climbing
Density Hangs, named so and popularized by Dr. Tyler Nelson, is a powerful hangboard training protocol. The term Density Hangs stems from the fact that the routine is generally considered to increase the cross-section of forearm tendons. That is partly true as pretty much any hangboard training method does that, but the main advantages of this unique exercise lie elsewhere. Namely, you can effectively use this method to make the muscle-tendon system more robust and less susceptible to injury. That lets you prepare your forearms and fingers for heavy and dynamic training loads while reducing the risk of damaging the connective tissues, which would stall your progress. In addition, if you’re already injured, you can use Density Hangs to speed up the healing process and increase the quality of your tendons by overcoming the stress-shielding mechanism and forcing the disrupted collagen to realign correctly. Read on if you would like to learn more about this must-know fingerboard protocol.
Hangboard Training Calculator for Rock Climbing
The Hangboard Training Calculator is an tool that allows the user to calculate the correct load, edge depth, and hang duration for various hangboard exercises.
Choose a fingerboard hold, hang at bodyweight or with any added or subtracted load, and measure your hang time until failure. Based on the result, the program lets you calculate the exact total load with which you can hang on this particular hold for any specified amount of time. Moreover, you can run the test on any edge between 5 – 35 mm and automatically recalculate the result to any other edge depth.
This way, you can quickly determine the correct loads for typical hangboard training routines such as Repeaters, MaxHangs, or Density Hangs.
BETA BOARD from Escape Climbing – Hangboard Review
The BETA BOARD is one of Escape Climbing’s most iconic products. It was developed around 2011, and back then, it was known as the V5.12 Board. Escape Climbing invited me to write a non-biased review earlier this year, and since then, I’ve been using the BETA BOARD in my training sessions. So if you’re interested in learning more about this unique and very versatile fingerboard, go ahead and read the full post!
Elbow Pain – The Ultimate Guide for Rock Climbers
Have you been suffering from elbow pain for a long time? Has it prevented you from hard training and stalled your rock climbing progress? If so, this article is for you! Read it, and you will learn everything you need to know to diagnose your elbow pain accurately, heal it and prevent it from recurring. To write this comprehensive guide, I teamed up with Dr. Jared Vagy, a.k.a. The Climbing Doctor, and read through hundreds of scientific articles to ensure that the data presented is valid and up to date. Find out which methods work and from which it’s better to stay away. In addition, learn how to properly execute strengthening exercises as well as stretching and manual therapy techniques! Finally, don’t waste your time suffering when you could be enjoying pain-free climbing days at your favorite crag!
Bleau Blocs – 100 Finest Boulders of Font – Review
“Bleau Blocs” is a new anthology of Bleau’s 100 finest boulders from Vertebrate Publishing. In the book, you’ll find detailed descriptions of Bleau’s crème de la crème boulder problems. Although it’s not a typical guidebook, it’s just what you need to look at Font from an entirely different perspective. The book is simply a must-have for anyone planning a bouldering trip to the Fontainebleau forest. Check out the detailed review to find out more!
Eric Hörst’s “7-53” finger strength training program (case study)
In this article, you will find the results of a hangboard strength training plan designed and executed by one of my blog readers. The program was based on the Maximum Weight “7-53” protocol – a highly effective finger strength training method developed by Eric Hörst.
Carson trained hard, and in just eight weeks, he improved his finger strength by 17% relative to his body weight. Go ahead and read the full article to learn the details of his training program!
Hangboard Training Program Results – José Antonio
José Antonio is a highly motivated climber from Mexico who likes both lead climbing and bouldering alike. When José Antonio and I met in June, he’d been climbing for over three years, and his personal best was 5.12a/7a+. After two months of following the program, he quickly sent his first two 5.12b/7b routes, and he’s hungry for more!
9 Powerful Reasons to Warm-Up for Rock Climbers (Review)
In this post, you will learn 9 powerful reasons why it’s critical that you do a good warm-up before beginning any kind of rock climbing activity. Based on a vast literature search, I review and examine the most vital physiological mechanisms associated with the warm-up. From increased blood flow through postactivation potentiation (aka “recruitment”) to stretching, all these effects are essential to maximizing short-term and long-term performance and preventing injuries. After reading this post, you will think twice the next time you feel like skipping the warm-up!
Eric Hörsts “7-53” Hangboard Maximalkraft-Protokoll
Das “7-53” Hangboard Maximalkraft-Protokoll ist eine hocheffektive Krafttrainingsmethode, die von Eric Hörst als etwas zwischen dem klassischen 7/3-Repeater-Protokoll und Eva López MaxHangs entwickelt wurde. Dieses sehr zeiteffiziente Protokoll ist der Mittelweg zwischen Kraft- und Kraftausdauertraining und wird für mittlere und fortgeschrittene Kletterer empfohlen. Mit dieser Methode stieg Eric auf einer 14-mm-Kante von 22,5 kg auf 41 kg Zusatzgewicht, und es ist sein bevorzugtes Hangboard-Protokoll!
Rock Climbing Performance Assessment: Highly Advanced 5.13c (8a+)
This is an example of an actual rock climbing performance assessment of a highly advanced climber, whose goal is to break into 5.14 grades (8b+). Here you will find a thorough analysis of the climber’s strength and endurance profile, together with relevant charts and a detailed evaluation of the climbing performance.
The Climbing Bible – Review
“The Climbing Bible” is the most recent release by Vertebrate Publishing. In the book you’ll find everything you need to get you started as a climber and hundreds of high-quality photos to get you psyched for training and sending hard. Although the book is more suitable for beginners, advanced crushers might also find it helpful, particularly concerning mental training and tactical aspects. Check out the detailed review to find out more.
