TRAINING
If your progress hit a plateau and you feel like “just climbing” is not enough anymore, it is time you should consider starting some supplementary training. Here you will find detailed descriptions of the most popular training protocols for developing both strength and endurance.
The best hangboard endurance training for rock climbing – Pyramids
Train climbing endurance with structured repeaters and pyramids sessions.
Ketogenic diet for rock climbers – pros and cons – review
Is keto effective for climbers? Pros, cons, and performance impact.
Finger strength measurements for rock climbers made easy!
Measure finger strength accurately and build a benchmark for training decisions.
How to test rock climbing finger endurance – simple guide
Measure finger endurance and identify weaknesses using a simple hangboard test.
How to boulder hard – conversation with Paul Gennaro!
This is the story of Paul Gennaro, a New Yorker who recently climbed his personal best at the local climbing area of Shawagunks.
In early 2022, Paul reached out to me asking if I thought a 40-year-old veteran could still make some strength gains to leap from V10 to V11 outdoor bouldering.
When he wrote to me, he was getting close to sending one of the few premier lines in the Gunks called Venus in Scorpio, graded V11, which he ultimately sent in the fall of 2022.
If you’d like to learn about Paul’s bouldering training methods, read the post and listen to our recorded conversation.
Beastmaking – A fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber – Review
A review of Beastmaking by Ned Feehally — a comprehensive climbing training manual, from finger strength and endurance to injury prevention and tactics.
The 5 best climbs of 2021 in Varazze by Federico Roncagliolo
Federico is the best boulderer I’ve trained so far! In one year of training he improved his bouldering from 8A to 8B! He lives in Italy and his home crag is Varazze – a splendid bouldering area visited by the worlds crème de la crème. Here we present some of his favorite ascents from 2021!
Dr. Tyler Nelson’s Density Hangs Finger Training for Rock Climbing
Density Hangs, popularized by Dr. Tyler Nelson, are a powerful hangboard protocol used to improve finger durability, tendon health, and resistance to injury. By exposing the fingers to long, controlled loading, the method helps prepare the muscle–tendon system for harder climbing while also supporting rehabilitation and tissue remodeling.
Hangboard Training Calculator for Rock Climbing
The Hangboard Training Calculator helps you determine the correct load, edge depth, and hang duration for exercises like Repeaters, MaxHangs, and Density Hangs. Test any edge between 5–35 mm with added or reduced weight, then instantly recalculate equivalent loads and durations for different holds and training protocols.
BETA BOARD from Escape Climbing – Hangboard Review
The BETA BOARD is one of Escape Climbing’s most iconic products. It was developed around 2011, and back then, it was known as the V5.12 Board. Escape Climbing invited me to write a non-biased review earlier this year, and since then, I’ve been using the BETA BOARD in my training sessions. So if you’re interested in learning more about this unique and very versatile fingerboard, go ahead and read the full post!
Elbow Pain – The Ultimate Guide for Rock Climbers
Struggling with climber’s elbow or chronic elbow pain? This comprehensive guide, created together with Dr. Jared Vagy (The Climbing Doctor), explains how to diagnose elbow pain correctly, rebuild tendon capacity, and return to pain-free climbing through evidence-based rehabilitation and training strategies.
Bleau Blocs – 100 Finest Boulders of Font – Review
“Bleau Blocs” is a new anthology of Bleau’s 100 finest boulders from Vertebrate Publishing. In the book, you’ll find detailed descriptions of Bleau’s crème de la crème boulder problems. Although it’s not a typical guidebook, it’s just what you need to look at Font from an entirely different perspective. The book is simply a must-have for anyone planning a bouldering trip to the Fontainebleau forest. Check out the detailed review to find out more!