Personal Hangboard Training Program
Running a climbing website became an excellent opportunity for me to study training for climbing in-depth. After all, the best way to learn something is to write about it. It also made it possible for me to have in-depth discussions with the U.S., Australia, or Italy’s best professional coaches. I got to know some fantastic people who are very motivated to improve their climbing performance. Now, having read hundreds of scientific papers and books on the physiology of sports training, hangboarding, mechanisms of fatigue, and energy systems, and after adding my 15 years of climbing experience on top of that, I decided it was time to put my knowledge into practice.
I used my engineering background to develop a unique climbing training system based on cutting edge climbing research and tested it on a group of athletes to ensure that it is effective and safe. The program comes in two versions, addressed to both boulderers and lead climbers. The training sessions are tailored to fit precisely my clients’ current goals and climbing schedules. Based on a set of metrics of my own design, I can determine which exact facets of the athlete’s profile need improvement, be it finger strength in a specific position, anaerobic, or aerobic endurance. I tested these assessment techniques and proven them accurate for a wide range of climbing levels, from 5.11 (6b+) up to 5.14d (9a).
If you’re interested in following my program, don’t hesitate to email me!
As my course participant, you will receive:
- Sport climbing training plans tailored to your current level and goals. This includes strength, endurance, and power training exercises.
- The training routines are based on the most recent developments in climbing training.
- A full assessment after each training cycle – roughly every two months
- The assessment will allow me to plan the next training cycle and introduce adjustments to the training plan based on the progress.
- Ongoing support for the training
- You can send me as many emails with questions as you like. It is also possible to ask questions through WhatsApp
- Support regarding injury prevention and treatment – fingers, elbows, shoulders
- You will learn a lot of interesting and useful things about training methods in general, which you will be able to apply throughout your whole climbing career!
Here’s what the participants say about the program:
In short, I have found my coach!
José Antonio (5.12b/7b)
Personal hangboard training program resultsBelow you can find a ranking with the most recent test results of some of my athletes that follow the program. The ranking is based on the recent maximum finger strength test results  and Critical Force test results . The results are then fed into an algorithm that outputs a score and the calculated predicted bouldering and lead climbing level. The tables also include the current climbing level reported by the climbers, as well as the personal best results. Click on the athlete’s name, to read the details of their progress so far.
Table 1: Personal Hangboard Training Program – bouldering ranking.
Table 2: Personal Hangboard Training Program – lead climbing ranking.
|Rank||Name||Score||Current level||Predicted level||Personal best|
|1||Jędrzej||1390||above 5.12b (7b)||5.13c (8a+)||5.12b (7b) in 2014|
|2||Daniele||1383||5.13c (8a+)||5.13c (8a+)||5.13c (8a+) in 08.2020|
|3||Jose Miguel||1240||5.13c (8a+)||5.13b (8a)||5.14a (8b+)|
|4||Sam||1215||5.13a (7c+)||5.13b (8a)||5.13b (8a) in 2019|
|5||Alberto||1093||5.13a (7c+)||5.12d (7c)||5.14a/b (8b+/c) in 2000|
|6||Piotr||1036||5.13a (7c+)||5.12c/d(7b+/c)||5.13a (7c+) in 08.2020|
|7||Dominik||1017||5.11c (6c+)||5.12c (7b+)||5.12a (7a+) in 2018|
|8||José Antonio||906||5.12b (7b)||5.12b (7b)||5.12b (7b) in 09.2020|