Personal Hangboard Training Program – Results

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Personal Hangboard Training Program

Running a climbing website became an excellent opportunity for me to study training for climbing in-depth. After all, the best way to learn something is to write about it. It also made it possible for me to have in-depth discussions with the U.S., Australia, or Italy’s best professional coaches. I got to know some fantastic people who are very motivated to improve their climbing performance. Now, having read hundreds of scientific papers and books on the physiology of sports training, hangboarding, mechanisms of fatigue, and energy systems, and after adding my 15 years of climbing experience on top of that, I decided it was time to put my knowledge into practice. 

I used my engineering background to develop a unique climbing training system based on cutting edge climbing research and tested it on a group of athletes to ensure that it is effective and safe. The program comes in two versions, addressed to both boulderers and lead climbers. The training sessions are tailored to fit precisely my clients’ current goals and climbing schedules. Based on a set of metrics of my own design, I can determine which exact facets of the athlete’s profile need improvement, be it finger strength in a specific position, anaerobic, or aerobic endurance. I tested these assessment techniques and proven them accurate for a wide range of climbing levels, from 5.11 (6b+) up to 5.14d (9a).

If you’re interested in following my program, don’t hesitate to email me!

As my course participant, you will receive:
  • Sport climbing training plans tailored to your current level and goals. This includes strength, endurance, and power training exercises.
    • The training routines are based on the most recent developments in climbing training.
  • A full assessment after each training cycle – roughly every two months
    • The assessment will allow me to plan the next training cycle and introduce adjustments to the training plan based on the progress.
  • Ongoing support for the training
    • You can send me as many emails with questions as you like. It is also possible to ask questions through WhatsApp
  • Support regarding injury prevention and treatment – fingers, elbows, shoulders
  • You will learn a lot of interesting and useful things about training methods in general, which you will be able to apply throughout your whole climbing career!

Here’s what the participants say about the program:

Samantha (5.13b/8a)

When COVID hit, and all the gyms closed down, I knew I needed something more than the standard repeaters method that I had been doing on my hangboard for years. I took to the internet and was immediately overwhelmed by how much information was out there and the conflicting schools of thought. I am the type of person that works best when someone tells me exactly what I am supposed to do, but after spending a bunch of money on websites, books, and programs, all I had was a bunch of information to sort through and no detailed plan. I came across the StrengthClimbing website and was immediately drawn to how organized the information was and how thoroughly Jedzej analyzed and explained various training methods. I messaged Jedzej to ask him about some of his research, and I was so impressed with how quickly he responded and the amount of information he provided. I have been training with him now for around 7 months. His programs are always so easy to follow and specifically designed for my needs and style of climbing. He is constantly communicating with me, tweaking my plans, reassessing, testing, and ensuring that I am on the right track. His programs range from complex to quite simple. If you have tons of time or barely any time at all, he will be able to find something that suits you. It's easy to remain motivated when I have someone to report to, and the programs switch frequently enough that I am never bored. If you want to get stronger and remain motivated, I strongly recommend training with Jędrzej
Samantha (5.13b/8a)
Sport Climber (Canada)
5/5

Piotr (5.13a/7c+)

Tired of reading, analysing, and piecing together everything I found on- and offline, I decided to look for help. Being a 43-year-old with very specific needs, I decided to contact various online coaches, who unfortunately could or did not want to take me under their wings. Through sheer luck, I came across StrenghtClimbing website, and upon having read all (sic!) its content in one go, I decided to contact Jedrzej to ask a few questions. He got back to me quickly, answered all my Qs and offered help with training. I started Jedrzej's training programme 7 months ago. At present, I can feel my fingers (crimping and grip) much stronger than before and my endurance has grown substantially. For the very first time, I am motivated to train on a fingerboard, which I had avoided and used infrequently before. I meticulously write down my results and J meticulously gets back to me with his feedback.
In short, I have found my coach!
Piotr (5.13a/7c+)
Sport Climber (Mexico)
5/5

José Antonio (5.12b/7b)

I was searching for a way to complement my training at home in 2020 because of the pandemic, and finding StrengthClimbing was not just what I was looking for but much more. I found a new way of training, which is addressed to the more specific requirements needed by a climber in order to get stronger and keep leveling up. I was used to overtraining, and this new approach has given me also more time to dedicate to my daily life by training just what's more important. The result has been finding myself with more energy and strength when I rock climb, which makes me enjoy more. Improving becomes an inevitable consequence.
José Antonio (5.12b/7b)
Sport Climber and Boulderer (Mexico)
5/5

Personal hangboard training program results

Below you can find a ranking with the most recent test results of some of my athletes that follow the program. The ranking is based on the recent maximum finger strength test results [1] and Critical Force test results [2]. The results are then fed into an algorithm that outputs a score and the calculated predicted bouldering and lead climbing level. The tables also include the current climbing level reported by the climbers, as well as the personal best results. Click on the athlete’s name, to read the details of their progress so far.

Table 1: Personal Hangboard Training Program  – bouldering ranking.

RankNameMVC-7/BWCurrent levelPredicted level
1Daniele1.91V11 (8A)V11 (8A)
2Alberto1.81n.a.V10 (7C+)
3Jędrzej1.80V7 (7A+) (MB)V9 (7C)
4Jose Miguel1.56V8 (7B+)V8 (7B)
5Dominik1.46n.a.V4 (6B+)
6Sam1.4V6 (7A)V4 (6B+)
7Piotr1.29V5 (6C)V5 (6C)
8José Antonio1.19V5 (6C)V4 (6B+)

Table 2: Personal Hangboard Training Program  – lead climbing ranking.

RankNameScoreCurrent levelPredicted levelPersonal best
1Jędrzej1392above 5.12b (7b)5.13c (8a+)5.12b (7b) in 2014
2Daniele13835.13c (8a+)5.13c (8a+)5.13c (8a+) in 08.2020
4Sam13505.13a (7c+)5.13c (8a+)5.13b (8a) in 2019
3Jose Miguel12405.13c (8a+)5.13b (8a)5.14a (8b+)
5Alberto10935.13a (7c+)5.12d (7c)5.14a/b (8b+/c) in 2000
6Piotr10765.13a (7c+)5.12d(7c)5.13a (7c+) in 08.2020
7Dominik10705.11c (6c+)5.12c (7c+)5.12a (7a+) in 2018
8José Antonio9065.12b (7b)5.12b (7b)5.12b (7b) in 09.2020

References

  1. J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer 2.0, June 25, 2020. (link)
  2. J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – Climbing Critical Force Calculator, May 19, 2019. (link)
Like the site? Please visit my IG account for more cool training info!
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2 thoughts on “Personal Hangboard Training Program – Results”

  1. Interesting. Looking forward to reading the Program when complete.
    Finding your own way, after following the known is certainly the way to go when armed with correct information.
    Love your website and delivery.

    1. Hi David!
      Thank you very much for your comment! Running the Program is a steep learning curve, but it helped me immensely to enhance my knowledge. I will soon make subpages with detailed results for all the participants, so I hope this will make it even more interesting to follow our progress!
      J.

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