Personal Hangboard Training Program – Results

Personal Hangboard Training Program

Running a climbing website became an excellent opportunity for me to study training for climbing in-depth. After all, the best way to learn something is to write about it. It also made it possible for me to have in-depth discussions with the U.S., Australia, or Italy’s best professional coaches. I got to know some fantastic people who are very motivated to improve their climbing performance. Now, having read hundreds of scientific papers and books on the physiology of sports training, hangboarding, mechanisms of fatigue, and energy systems, and after adding my 15 years of climbing experience on top of that, I decided it was time to put knowledge into practice.

I used my engineering background to develop a unique climbing training system based on cutting edge climbing research and tested it on a group of athletes to ensure that it is effective and safe. The program comes in two versions, addressed to both boulderers and lead climbers. The training sessions are tailored to fit precisely my clients’ current goals and climbing schedules. Based on a set of metrics of my own design, I can determine which exact facets of the athlete’s profile need improvement, be it finger strength in a specific position, anaerobic, or aerobic endurance. I tested these assessment techniques and proven them accurate for a wide range of climbing levels, from 5.11 (6b+) up to 5.14d (9a).

If you’re interested in following my program, don’t hesitate to email me!  

As my course participant, you will receive:
  • Sport climbing training plans tailored to your current level and goals. This includes strength, endurance, and power training exercises.
    • The training routines are based on the most recent developments in climbing training.
  • A full assessment after each training cycle – roughly every two months
    • The assessment will allow me to plan the next training cycle and introduce adjustments to the training plan based on the progress. That includes a video call to discuss the results.
  • Ongoing support for the training
    • You can send me as many emails with questions as you like and I will answer them in 24 hours at the latest (possibly sooner) unless I’m on holiday. It will also be possible to ask questions through WhatsApp
  • Support regarding injury prevention and treatment – fingers, elbows, shoulders
  • You will learn a lot of interesting and useful things about training methods in general, which you will be able to apply throughout your whole climbing career!

Below you can find a ranking with the most recent test results of some of my athletes that follow the program. The ranking is based on the recent maximum finger strength test results [1] and Critical Force test results [2]. The results are then fed into an algorithm that outputs a score and the calculated predicted bouldering and lead climbing level. The tables also include the current climbing level reported by the climbers, as well as the personal best results. Click on the athlete’s name, to read the details of their progress so far.

Here's what people say about the Program:

Tired of reading, analysing, and piecing together everything I found on- and offline, I decided to look for help. Being a 43-year-old with very specific needs, I decided to contact various online coaches, who unfortunately could or did not want to take me under their wings. Through sheer luck, I came across StrenghtClimbing website, and upon having read all (sic!) its content in one go, I decided to contact Jedrzej to ask a few questions. He got back to me quickly, answered all my Qs and offered help with training. I started Jedrzej's training programme 7 months ago. At present, I can feel my fingers (crimping and grip) much stronger than before and my endurance has grown substantially. For the very first time, I am motivated to train on a fingerboard, which I had avoided and used infrequently before. I meticulously write down my results and J meticulously gets back to me with his feedback.
In short, I have found my coach!
Piotr
Sport Climber (Mexico)
5/5

Table 1: Personal Hangboard Training Program  – bouldering ranking.

RankNameMVC-7/BWCurrent levelPredicted level
1Daniele1.91V11 (8A)V11 (8A)
2Alberto1.81n.a.V10 (7C+)
3Jędrzej1.66V7 (7A+) (MB)V8 (7B+)
4Jose Miguel1.56V8 (7B+)V8 (7B)
5Dominik1.35n.a.V4 (6B+)
6Sam1.32V6 (7A)V4 (6B+)
7Piotr1.19V5 (6C)V5 (6C)
8Jose Antonio1.17V5 (6C)V4 (6B)

Table 2: Personal Hangboard Training Program  – lead climbing ranking.

RankNameScoreCurrent levelPredicted levelPersonal best
1Daniele13835.13c (8a+)5.13c (8a+)5.13c (8a+) in 08.2020
2Jędrzej1373above 5.12b (7b)5.13c (8a+)5.12b (7b) in 2014
3Jose Miguel12405.13c (8a+)5.13b (8a)5.14a (8b+)
4Sam12005.13a (7c+)5.13a (7c+)5.13b (8a) in 2019
5Alberto10935.13a (7c+)5.12d (7c)5.14a/b (8b+/c) in 2000
6Dominik10175.11c (6c+)5.12c (7b+)5.12a (7a+) in 2018
7Piotr9475.13a (7c+)5.12b (7b)5.13a (7c+) in 08.2020
8Jose Antonio8305.12b (7b)5.11d (7a)5.12b (7b) in 09.2020

References

  1. J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer 2.0, June 25, 2020. (link)
  2. J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – Climbing Critical Force Calculator, May 19, 2019. (link)
Reviews from my clients and collaborators:

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2 thoughts on “Personal Hangboard Training Program – Results”

  1. Interesting. Looking forward to reading the Program when complete.
    Finding your own way, after following the known is certainly the way to go when armed with correct information.
    Love your website and delivery.

    1. Hi David!
      Thank you very much for your comment! Running the Program is a steep learning curve, but it helped me immensely to enhance my knowledge. I will soon make subpages with detailed results for all the participants, so I hope this will make it even more interesting to follow our progress!
      J.

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