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Hangboard Training Program Results – Jędrzej

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Hangboard Training Program – Jędrzej

I’ve been climbing since 2005, and since the beginning, my ambition was to send hard sport routes. However, my training focus revolved around bouldering and building strength, because I thought that if I got stronger, my endurance would also improve, a tip I read in one of the articles by Eric Hörst 12.

However, despite getting stronger and progressing significantly on the Moonboard, I couldn’t understand why I would very quickly get pumped when lead climbing. It was only later, after reading a paper by Lattice Training, that I discovered that the correlation between finger strength and endurance is very weak 3. It is certainly valid for continuous hangs endurance, but not necessarily for intermittent hangs endurance, which is the key to sending difficult routes.

For these reasons, I designed my personal Training Program to put an equal emphasis on strength and endurance development. I started in July 2019 with and 8-month cycle of Steve Bechtel’s Ladders, which constituted the main part of my training sessions and helped me increase my finger strength significantly 45. The second part of my sessions was a short 10 – 20-minute set of Endurance Repeaters 6. The program proved very effective, and I managed to increase my finger strength and endurance significantly, as shown in Table 1 below. You can read the details of that part of my training program in 7

Starting from April 2020, I began to focus on endurance development, by increasing the duration of the Endurance Repeaters exercise to 45 minutes. This change let me improve my endurance further, but I noticed that my finger strength began to decay. I want to become a better lead climber, but also to keep improving my bouldering, so now I’m trying to fine-tune the program to regain the finger strength level from March 2020, while efficiently developing my endurance. On this page, you will find the details of my progress, as I follow the Experimental Hangboard Training program of my design.

Table 1: Hangboard Training Program progress. Cycles 1 – 5.

Beginning (07.2019)After Cycle 1 (09.2019)After Cycle 3 (02.2020)After Cycle 4 (06.2020)After Cycle 5 (08.2020)
Completed cycleMixedStrength /EnduranceStrength /EnduranceStrengh-Endurance /EnduranceStrength /Endurance
MVC-7 (20 mm) [kg]108111114106108
Body weight [kg]6566626464
MVC-7 (20 mm) [%BW]166%168%184%166%169%
CF [%MVC-7]29%33%34%39%41%
CF [%BW]49%55%62%64%69%
CF [kg]32
36394144
Score11361193132013161373
Bouldering level predictionV7 (7A+)V8 (7B)V9 (7C)V9 (7C)V8 (7B+)
Current bouldering levelV6 (7A) (MB)V6 (7A) (MB)V8 (7B) (MB)V7 (7A+) (MB)V7 (7A+) (MB)
Lead level prediction7c+7c+8a+8a+8a+
Current lead level?????

Table 2: Hangboard Training Program progress. Cycles 6 – 8.

After Cycle 6 (09.2020)After Cycle 7 (11.2020)After Cycle 8 (01.2021)
Completed cycleStrength /EnduranceStrength /EnduranceStrength /Endurance
MVC-7 (20 mm) [kg]111111114
Body weight [kg]6464.564.5
MVC-7 (20 mm) [%BW]173%172%177%
CF [%MVC-7]39%41%43%
CF [%BW]67%70%75%
CF [kg]434549
Score137713901529
Bouldering level predictionV8 (7B+)V8 (7B+)V9 (7C)
Current bouldering levelV7(7A+) (MB)??
Lead level prediction8a+8a+8b+
Current lead level???

Figure 1: Jędrzej’s general progress in terms of MVC-7 and Critical Force, expressed as absolute loads in kg.

Figure 2: Critical Force as percentage of MVC-7 – progress plots.

Figure 3: Critical Force as percentage of bodyweight – progress plots.

References

  1. E. Hörst, Training4Climbing, 5 Reasons Why Stronger Fingers Matter!, June 10, 2016. (link)[]
  2. D. Mirsky, Evening Sends – CATCH A HANGBOARD BUZZ, Oct. 15, 2014. (link)[]
  3. Giles, D., Chidley, J.B., Taylor, N., Torr, O., Hadley, J., Randall, T., Fryer, S., 2019. The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance 1–8. (link)[]
  4. S. Bechtel, Training: Hangboard Ladders for Finger Strength, Climbing.com, Aug. 10. 2016. (link)[]
  5. J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders hangboard finger strength training, May 18, 2019. (link)[]
  6. J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – Endurance Repeaters, May 2, 2019. (link)[]
  7. J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – 8-Month Hangboard Finger Strength Training Program Results, Mar. 31, 2020. (link)[]
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