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Bouldering Veteran's road to V11 - Introduction

The US is undoubtedly a rock-climbing paradise, full of fantastic climbing areas. Whether it's big wall climbing, endurance sport climbing, crack climbing, or bouldering, you're sure to find something for yourself. However, since it's such a vast land, it's often necessary to travel extensive distances to get to the most popular and well-known crags. But it's only sometimes required to travel far; incredible climbing could lurk just around the corner.

This is the story of Paul Gennaro, a New Yorker who recently climbed his personal best at the local climbing area of Shawagunks [1]. Earlier this year, Paul reached out to me asking if I thought a 40-year-old veteran could still make some strength gains to leap from V10 to V11 outdoor bouldering. I was instantly intrigued - there was something about his drive and systematic approach to hard training that I found extraordinary. Of course, I tried to help, but truth be told, Paul did all the work himself, and I learned from him as much as he did from me, if not more.

When he wrote to me, he was getting close to sending one of the few premier lines in the Gunks called Venus in Scorpio, graded V11, and in this post, Paul will tell how he managed to stick the final dyno and ultimately tick off his first outdoor V11. If you'd like to learn more about Paul's bouldering training methods, go ahead and listen to our recorded podcast, where you'll learn how to leverage the Finger Strength Analyzer to monitor your fingerboard strength training progress [2]!

Video 1: Training for hard bouldering with Paul Gennaro - StrengthClimbing conversation [3].

A few words about me - Paul Gennaro

I am a 43-year-old gym rat who lives in New York City and works as a motion designer. This past year, I began training for outdoor climbing after 15 years of experience. As a gym rat, I was satisfied. I enjoyed spending time outside but only ventured out here and there. However, there were moments when I climbed in Central Park a lot or traveled to the Gunks with my next-door neighbor. Occasionally, I would even travel with friends to Rumney, New Hampshire, for sport climbing, but all for fun. Truth be told, I’ve always enjoyed getting more volume and a better workout inside. However, as Covid, gym closures, and comp-style boulder problems popped up more and more, I decided to make a change and venture outdoors.

When I first started climbing in 2007, it was all about getting strong, having fun, and pulling hard. But climbing meant more than fun and fitness as I became older. It was a lifestyle, an outlet for stress, and a way of tackling life. It was how I synthesized my problems on and off the wall. In many ways, I thought climbing mirrored life, and life mirrored climbing. So why not learn and take from climbing, and apply accordingly?

bouldering in Shawagunks
Photo 1: Paul Gennaro in front of Venus in Scorpio.

Why do I climb in the Gunks?

There is a ridge line about one hour and a half outside New York City called the Shawangunks (also known as the Gunks). Purity, ethics, and bolt-free lines are the hallmarks of this place. Although it’s known for its fall beauty, its history is second only to Yosemite. Compared to other known or popular climbing crags, it is a small place that packs a punch. Despite its size, it is home to some of the finest trad lines in the country. This place offers a range of X and R-rated routes, as well as boulder problems. If you want to cut your teeth on challenging trad lines and boulder problems, here is the place. But, beyond its lines and overall development, its history sets it apart from all other crags in the region.

What is Venus in Scorpio?

It is Ivan Greene’s classic V11 benchmark, established in the early 2000s, that became viral in the region. Featured in Sender Films’ Dosage Volume 2, it became one of the most coveted lines in the Gunks. The climb offers endless possibilities, making it a true full-value climb [4]. For example, even the first ascensionist climbed Venus in a way that appears to be humanly impossible by mono-ing to a crimp below the dyno.

The climb starts with two amazing jugs that lead to a crimp rail. Depending on your finger size, the rail will feel like an 8 to 10-millimeter edge. As you transition, you step up, stab your opposite foot into a smallish hole, and hit a V10-ish span to a glassy side pull. The span is the first crux. If you don’t slip off, the foot move that follows, in my opinion, is more challenging than the span itself. Near the first hole, there are a series of small holes arranged in a row. While holding the span and holding crazy amounts of body tension, you need to release your left foot and slide it to the furthest hole. Then, it’s a sprint to the finish, with a dyno at the end. In isolation, one of the easiest parts to mess up is the dyno. But the moves before the dyno are equally challenging, involving unimaginable holds. Since this is a friction-dependent problem, putting the whole climb together requires a lot of mental stamina.

Video 2: Jesse Grupper on Venus in Scorpio V11, Shawagunks [5].

My strategy for Venus in Scorpio V11

Over the course of seven months, I spent ten sessions projecting Venus. April 27th to November 26th of 2022 to be exact. In my first three sessions, I had the climb in two links minus the dyno. By the fourth session, I was able to include the dyno in my upper link but made no further progress. There was another session in May, but the weather was hot. In terms of strategy, I would rest for 5 to 10

…

Cover photo by Federico Rimembrana – @fede.ri_91

Preface by Dr. Jared Vagy – The Climbing Doctor

Elbow injuries can start as a mild nagging discomfort and develop into a debilitating pain that makes it difficult to train and climb. They involve a complex differential diagnostic process and can often be challenging to treat. Historically there has been limited research evidence on how best to manage elbow pain. However, there is new evidence now emerging that supports various intervention techniques. Jędrzej has done the hard work for you in this article by reviewing and summarizing the current research on elbow tendinopathy. The article is very comprehensive and goes in-depth into every aspect of the elbow. You will learn the anatomy of the elbow, how to diagnose your elbow pain, and a step-by-step process to treat it. The hope is that you can use this article as a reference to guide you through the rehabilitation process.

Dr. Jared Vagy PT, DPT
Doctor of Physical Therapy
Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist

Elbow Pain – The Ultimate Guide for Rock Climbers – Quick summary

Elbow pain for rock climbers - Introduction

Chronic elbow pain is one of the most common injuries among climbers, yet it is also one of the toughest to heal. I should know - I suffered from elbow epicondylosis for over five years! I was lucky to identify the root cause of my elbow issues and solve them, but many climbers are not as fortunate. The generally available climbing resources provide some information on preventing and healing chronic elbow injuries, but the picture is often incomplete, and the advice is rarely helpful. If applied haphazardly, remedies found in books and on climbing fora can often make things even worse and lead to unnecessary aggravation of the condition.

Because of my long-year struggle, since long I have wanted to write a post about elbow epicondylosis. Recently, I got in touch with Dr. Jared Vagy, who is well recognized in the climbing community as The Climbing Doctor. Jared is an accomplished Doctor of Physical Therapy and a University Professor specializing in climbing injuries [1][2]. He also runs a successful climbing site theclimbingdoctor.com and appeared multiple times on the TrainingBeta podcasts, where among other topics, he thoroughly explained elbow pain causes and treatments [3][4].

I thought it would be an excellent opportunity to team up and write the article together, and Jared very kindly agreed! I hope you will enjoy this post and find it helpful if you are struggling with elbow pain!

Quick Guide to Climber's Elbow healing

Here is a quick step-by-step guide if you are not interested in reading a long article but want to fix your Tennis or Golfer's Elbow pronto.

Phases of the healing process

There are three main phases of the tendon healing process:
  • Inflammation - lasts about 7 days after the injury. Necessary for the initiation of the healing process
  • Formation - takes up to 3 weeks after the injury.
  • Remodeling - starts 3 - 6 weeks after the injury, can take up to 1 year.

The challenge is that if your condition is chronic, it might be impossible to tell at which stage of the healing process you currently are. Moreover, different parts of the tendon could be at different healing phases concurrently. There could be places where constant micro-tearing causes inflammation or areas where the formative or remodeling stage was failed, has stagnated and needs a reset. That vicious cycle of inflammation and degeneration makes recovering difficult and needs to be stopped if you want to get better for good.

Understanding the above healing stages is critical because it will let you apply the correct treatment mode at the right time and help you evaluate your progress. You will be able to tell where you currently are and what to expect in the coming weeks.

Step-by-step elbow healing procedure

If tendinosis indeed lies at the root of your elbow pain, which is often best ascertained by a competent physiotherapist, an effective healing strategy is as follows:
  • Depending on the severity of your condition, either take a week or two or two of complete rest or significantly reduce the training volume and intensity. However, do not take a complete break from climbing for more than a few weeks.
  • Perform forearm massage and gentle stretching to start releasing muscle tension (video massage).
  • Use Myofascial Release to continue loosening muscle tone and scar tissue adhesions (video MET)
  • Apply Deep Transverse Friction techniques (DTF) to break down the degenerated tendon tissue and reinitiate the inflammation phase necessary to trigger tendon healing.
  • Focus on stretching to release the muscle tension further and start realigning the collagen fibers.
  • After about 2 – 3 weeks, begin to slowly introduce rehabilitation exercises to remodel the tendon and strengthen it by triggering hypertrophy.
  • Focus on strengthening the antagonist muscles using appropriate exercises to prevent reoccurrence of the issue.
  • Change climbing habits, crimp less, improve technique, climb more dynamically, avoid locking off all the time.
  • Warm up thoroughly before each training or climbing session. You will find everything you need to know about why you should warm up in this article [5].

Releasing muscle tone and scar tissue adhesions in the forearms

If your condition is not very severe yet, it might be enough to release the tension in your forearms. Take about two weeks off from climbing. During that time, massage and gently stretch your forearms to relieve any passive tension and eliminate scar tissue adhesions in your muscles and tendons. Start by performing massage once

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Hangboard Training Program – José Antonio

José Antonio is a highly motivated climber from Mexico who likes both lead climbing and bouldering alike. When José Antonio and I met in June, he’d been climbing for over three years, and his personal best was 5.12a/7a+. After two months of following the program, he quickly sent his first two 5.12b/7b routes, and now he’s hungry for more! 

Since José Antonio was completely new to hangboard training, I decided to put him on a long and easy adaptation cycle to ensure that he doesn’t become overtrained or injured. The cycle was a mix of weighted hangs, Endurance Repeaters, Moonboarding, and lead climbing. Despite the seemingly low hangboarding volume, José Antonio improved his strength and aerobic endurance significantly, allowing him to enter the 5.12b/7b grade.

StrengthClimbing Climber on Katmandú", 5.11d/5.12a (7a/7a+), Guadalcázar, San Luis Potosí, México
Photo: José Antonio negotiating the steep overhang of “Katmandú”, 5.11d/5.12a (7a/7a+), Guadalcázar, San Luis Potosí, México.

Here's what José Antonio says about the Program:

I was searching for a way to complement my training at home in 2020 because of the pandemic, and finding StrengthClimbing was not just what I was looking for but much more. I found a new way of training, which is addressed to the more specific requirements needed by a climber in order to get stronger and keep leveling up. I used to overtrain, but Jędrzej's personalized approach has given me also more time to dedicate to my daily life by training just what's most important. The result has been finding myself with more energy and strength when I rock climb, which makes me enjoy more Improving becomes an inevitable consequence!
José Antonio (5.12b/7b)
Sport Climber and Boulderer (Mexico)
5/5

Results of Cycle 1 (Strength/Endurance – Adaptation)

When José Antonio started the program, his MVC-7 on a 20 mm edge was 117%, and his Critical Force (CF) was only 28%, which is very low for a lead climber. After five months of an adaptation training cycle, his MVC-7 load increased by a remarkable 7 kg! In parallel, he managed to improve his CF to 35% MVC-7, which is a much more acceptable value. 

José Antonio is now ready for his training loads and volume to be carefully increased to ensure that he keeps progressing evenly without hitting a plateau.

Table 1: Hangboard Training Program progress.

Beginning (07.2020)After Cycle 1 (12.2020)
Completed cycleJust ClimbingStrength/Endurance Adaptation
MVC-7 (20 mm) [kg]7784
Body weight [kg]6671
MVC-7 (20 mm) [%BW]117%119%
CF [%MVC-7]28%35%
CF [%BW]32%42%
CF [kg]21
29
Score829906
Bouldering level predictionV4 (6B)V4 (6B+)
Current bouldering levelV5 (6C) V5 (6C)
Lead level prediction5.11d (7a)5.12b (7b)
Current lead level5.12a (7a+)5.12b (7b)

Figure 1: Critical Force as percentage of MVC-7 – progress plots.

Figure 2: Critical Force as percentage of bodyweight – progress plots.

References

…

9 Powerful Reasons to Warm-Up for Rock Climbers – Quick summary

Warm-up for rock climbers – Introduction

The majority of climbers and athletes know the importance of a solid warm-up before hitting the rock or the gym wall. Coaches, physiotherapists, and doctors generally recommend doing warm-up, stretching, and cool-down exercises to prevent injury and enhance performance [1]. Numerous studies have shown that a proper warm-up is indeed an effective way of reducing injury risk [2][3][4].

But there is far more than meets the eye when it comes to getting yourself ready for a hard climbing training session. For the climbing warm-up routine to let us maximize the performance on the rock or at the climbing gym, it needs to be well structured, specific, and time-efficient. Ideally, the transition between the warm-up and the main session should be seamless. Preparatory exercises need to be designed to contribute directly to the main session’s activities and goals. But most importantly, you should treat the warm-up in itself as a critical training tool rather than solely a preparation before the actual training [5]. So, let’s go ahead and take a closer look at the essential aspects of an effective warm-up for rock climbers. 

Treat the warm-up in itself as a critical training tool rather than solely a preparation before the actual training.

Warm-up for rock climbers – Physiological effects

Warm up techniques are divided into two primary categories: passive and active. The goal of a passive warm up is to raise the muscle temperature (Tm) or core temperature (Tc) by external means, such as hot showers or baths, saunas, diathermy, and heating. Such an approach makes it possible to warm the body without depleting energy substrates, which are needed later during the main activity [6].

An active warm-up for rock climbers may involve jogging, jumping, push-ups, pull-ups, fist-clenching, and some light climbing, leading to more significant metabolic and cardiovascular changes than the passive warm-up. The warm-up’s primary effects can be divided into temperature related and non-temperature related, as shown in Table 1 [7][8]
[5].  

Table 1: Physiological effects of a warm-up.

Temperature related
Decreased resistance of muscles and joints
Increased muscle and ligament flexibility
Enhanced blood flow to muscles
Speeding of metabolic reactions
Increased speed of nerve impulses (conduction rate)
Non-temperature related
Enhanced blood flow to muscles
Elevation of baseline oxygen consumption
Postactivation potentiation
Reduced DOMS
Let’s analyze these effects in more detail.

Temperature related effects of a warm-up for rock climbers

When talking about body temperature, we need to distinguish between the core temperature (Tc) and the temperature of the muscles and ligaments (Tm). The core itself is generally defined as the brain and the heart, and its temperature is kept stable at 37°C [9][10].

The muscles and ligaments in the arms and legs serve as radiators that remove excess heat from the core, and their temperature usually is 2 – 6°C below the core temperature [11][12][13][14]. Generally, the further the muscle and ligament tissues are from the central body, the cooler they are, so forearm muscles and fingers get cold very easily [15][14]. 

In Figure 1 below, the forearm muscle temperature measured at different depths from the skin’s surface is plotted [13][14]. Before taking the measurements, the forearm was immersed in a water bath of different temperatures for 30 minutes, and one reference measurement was done at room temperature in air. Water is a much better heat conductor than air, so the temperature at 2 cm below the skin at 26°C, measured for the forearm immersed in water is about 5°C lower than the temperature measured if the forearm is air-cooled. That means that if we are climbing outside, wearing only a t-shirt, taking long rests between burns, and it is below 20°C outside, the forearm muscles’ temperature may drop below 30°C, compromising performance.

Because of limited blood flow, it's best to warm-up your fingers externally with heat pads or by rubbing them together.

The easiest way to warm-up deep tissues such as muscles is by light active exercise, which increases the blood flow and moves the heat from the core to the further parts of the body [15][14]. But since blood flow in ligament tissues is much lower than in the muscles, it is better to heat knees, ankles, and finger joints externally [16]. Warming your cold fingers by rubbing them together can indeed help reduce injury risk, but it may also be a good idea to take a heat pack to the crag during the chilly fall and winter months. 

Blood flow in forearm muscles at varying temperature

Figure

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Hangboard Training Program – Piotr

Piotr is an extremely motivated and experienced lead climber, who excels at crimpy slabs and vertical walls. He lives in Mexico, where he has access to vast areas of high-quality virgin rock, which allows him to bolt his own new lines.

To me, Piotr is a bit of a mystery because, based on the score from my lead climbing grade prediction algorithm, his level should only be 5.11d (7a). So far, the algorithm has been pretty accurate at estimating the current lead climbing level for other climbers on the program. And yet just a while ago, Piotr managed to send his fourth 5.13a (7c+) route. I believe that what Piotr lacks in terms of physical determinants, he makes up for with experience, technique, a strong mental game, and commitment. On top of that, being six feet tall gives him an extra edge on crimpy and slabby routes. 

Piotr is currently climbing a lot outdoors, so he follows a low volume hangboard training program, which strikes an equal balance between strength and endurance development. It also needs to be mentioned that Piotr never really trained on the hangboard before, so he still has a huge potential for physical development. I believe that if he combines his improved strength and endurance with his technique and experience, he will significantly progress as a climber.

Climber on an overhanging route in Mexico

Photo: Piotr in his element – projecting a 5.13a route in Mexico – Project sent in Dec. 2020.

Here's what Piotr says about the Program:

"Tired of reading, analysing, and piecing together everything I found on- and offline, I decided to look for help. Being a 43-year-old with very specific needs, I decided to contact various online coaches, who unfortunately could or did not want to take me under their wings. Through sheer luck, I came across StrenghtClimbing website, and upon having read all (sic!) its content in one go, I decided to contact Jedrzej to ask a few questions. He got back to me quickly, answered all my Qs and offered help with training. I started Jedrzej's training programme 7 months ago. At present, I can feel my fingers (crimping and grip) much stronger than before and my endurance has grown substantially. For the very first time, I am motivated to train on a fingerboard, which I had avoided and used infrequently before. I meticulously write down my results and J meticulously gets back to me with his feedback. In short, I have found my coach!"
Piotr (5.13a/7c+)
Sport Climber (Mexico)
5/5

Results of Cycle 1

When Piotr entered the program his MVC-7 on a 20 mm edge was only 114%, a result typical for a V5 climber. His critical force was 33% of his MVC-7, which is more common for boulderers than lead climbers. For sport climbers, this number normally lies above 40% and it’s not uncommon to see ratios as high as 50% or even 55%. Taking into account Piotr’s results, and the fact that he never trained systematically on the hangboard, I decided to put him on a balanced program, with a slight emphasis on endurance development.

Cycle 1 was three months long, from mid-June until mid-September when we ran the performance assessment. As a result, Piotr’s strength increased by 4 kgs, which is a very respectable 5% improvement. However, Piotr’s gains in terms of endurance were even more spectacular. In only three months his Critical Force went up to 40% MVC-7, and 47% body weight. In August Piotr confirmed his physical fitness by redpointing a 5.13a (7c+) project. 

I believe that Piotr still has some way to go before he’s ready to lead his first 5.13b route, but he’s on the right track, and with his commitment and discipline, it’s just a matter of time.

Results of Cycle 2

Cycle 2 was also three months long, from late September until the end of November. Regarding strength training, this time, we opted for a more relaxed approach, with shorter and less intense hangboard sessions and with a lot of lead climbing and a bit of gym bouldering. The results exceeded our expectations by far! 

Piotr’s strength increased by 5 kgs, which is almost a 6% improvement. What is also very interesting, Piotr managed to improve both his anaerobic and aerobic endurance significantly. His time under tension (TUT) for the 80% MVC-7 Repeaters on a 20 mm edge increased from 42 seconds at 68 kg to 60 seconds at 72 kg. The TUT at 45% MVC-7 increased from 341 seconds at 38 kg to 510 seconds at 41 kg.

After five months of training, Piotr continues to progress systematically. He also keeps relentlessly ticking-off more 5.13a/7c+ routes from his projects checklist. Piotr is now physically ready to tackle his 5.13b (8a) lead climbing projects. I’m keeping my fingers crossed in the hope that he will soon reach his personal best!

Results of Cycle 3

Piotr started Cycle 3 at the beginning of January 2021 and completed it by the end of March, with regular strength and endurance tests. Cycle 3 was a mix of Tyler Nelson’s Density Hangs and Steve Bechtel’s GO plans. Piotr’s half crimp strength continued to improve, albeit at a slightly slower rate, to reach 92.5 kg for 7 seconds on a 20 mm edge (MVC-7). 

However, it was his aerobic endurance improvement that surprised us immensely! And while the anaerobic endurance did not change significantly, Piotr managed to exceed 20 minutes of total exercise time on his 45% MVC-7 test. That means that his Time Under Tension (TUT) increased from 510 seconds at 41 kg load to 894 seconds at 42 kg load! Quite an achievement and a testimony to the effectiveness of the program.

Table 1: Hangboard Training Program progress.

Beginning (06.2020)After Cycle 1 (09.2020)After Cycle 2 (12.2020)After Cycle 3 (03.2021)
Completed cycleJust climbingStrength /EnduranceStrength /EnduranceStrength /Endurance
MVC-7 (20 mm) [kg]81859092.5
Body weight [kg]71.571.572.571.5
MVC-7 (20
…

Hangboard Training Program – Sam

Samantha is a super experienced lead climber, who has traveled worldwide and climbed rocks on almost every continent. She likes climbing bouldery routes, with short cruxes and good rests in between, but since her aerobic endurance is excellent, she can comfortably project longer routes as well. 

Sam’s Critical Force to MVC-7 ratio is high, reaching almost 50% (Table 1), so it is no surprise that she established her 5.13b (8a) personal best in Red River Gorge [1]. Because of that, we decided to emphasize strength development, to help her improve on overhanging and powerful routes. Sam trained diligently throughout May 2020 and significantly improved her finger strength, strength endurance, and aerobic endurance, as can be seen in the progress plots below.

At the moment, Sam is climbing mainly outdoors, so we reduced the training volume accordingly, but strength training remains the cornerstone of her hangboard program.

Photo: Samantha cruising up a powerful vertical route.

Here's what Sam says about the Program:

When COVID hit, and all the gyms closed down, I knew I needed something more than the standard repeaters method that I had been doing on my hangboard for years. I took to the internet and was immediately overwhelmed by how much information was out there and the conflicting schools of thought. I am the type of person that works best when someone tells me exactly what I am supposed to do, but after spending a bunch of money on websites, books, and programs, all I had was a bunch of information to sort through and no detailed plan. I came across the StrengthClimbing website and was immediately drawn to how organized the information was and how thoroughly Jędrzej analyzed and explained various training methods. I messaged Jedzej to ask him about some of his research, and I was so impressed with how quickly he responded and the amount of information he provided. I have been training with him now for around 7 months. His programs are always so easy to follow and specifically designed for my needs and style of climbing. He is constantly communicating with me, tweaking my plans, reassessing, testing, and ensuring that I am on the right track. His programs range from complex to quite simple. If you have tons of time or barely any time at all, he will be able to find something that suits you. It's easy to remain motivated when I have someone to report to, and the programs switch frequently enough that I am never bored. If you want to get stronger and remain motivated, I strongly recommend training with Jędrzej
Samantha (5.13b/8a)
Sport Climber (Canada)
5/5

Results after Cycles 1 – 4 (1 year of program)

After one year of training with my Personalized Hangboard Training program, we found that Sam’s relative finger strength increased significantly, from 127% to slightly over 140% of her bodyweight. Her aerobic endurance remained at the 50% MVC-7 level, which is an excellent result, even among proficient lead climbers. However, we managed to greatly improve her anaerobic alactic and anaerobic lactic endurance relative to the MVC-7, which can be seen in Figure 2.

The fantastic progress Sam made is even better visible in Figure 3, where the endurance curve is plotted in relation to her body weight. I firmly believe that if all goes well, Sam will enter the 5.13c level this season! 

Table 1: Hangboard Training Program progress.

Beginning (04.2020)After Cycle 1 (06.2020)After Cycle 3 (12.2020)After Cycle 4 (03.2021)
Previous cycleMixedStrength /EnduranceStrength /EnduranceStrength /Endurance
MVC-7 (20 mm) [kg]73.476.676.681.4
Body weight [kg]58585858
MVC-7 (20 mm) [%BW]127%132%132%140%
CF [%MVC-7]49%47%53%50%
CF [%BW]64%61%70%71%
CF [kg]37
364141
Score1111117512601350
Bouldering level predictionV4 (6B+)V4 (6B+)V4 (6B+)V4 (6B+)
Current bouldering levelV6 (7A) V6 (7A) V6 (7A) V6 (7A)
Lead level prediction5.13a (7c+)5.13a (7c+)5.13b (8a)5.13c (8a+)
Current lead level5.13b (8a)5.13b (8a)5.13b (8a)5.13b (8a)

Figure 1: Sam’s general progress in terms of MVC-7 and Critical Force, expressed as absolute loads in kg.

Figure 2: Critical Force as percentage of MVC-7 – progress plots.

Figure 3: Critical Force as percentage of bodyweight – progress plots.

References

  1. mountainproject.com, Red River Gorge Climbing, July 10, 2006. (link)↩
…

Hangboard Training Program – Daniele

Daniele is a powerful all-round climber who specializes in bouldering but is also successful in sport climbing. He’s had a great summer so far, and he managed to set personal bests in both bouldering and lead climbing. His most spectacular achievement in 2020 was climbing Souvenir 8A in Chironico, which was set by Fred Nicole [1]. Below you can see an example ascent video.  

Video 1: Example ascent video of Souvenir 8A.

Another success for Daniele this year was that he improved his personal best in sport climbing to 8a+ in August. Daniele prefers short and bouldery routes. When we look at his progress table, we can see that his Critical Force is currently 34% of his MVC-7, which is typical for boulderers. Still, because Daniele is very strong, his CF relative to bodyweight is 66%, which is definitely sufficient to send hard lead climbs. 

Focusing on improving his endurance would probably let Daniele reach 8b+ fairly quickly. However, since he has a preference for bouldering, we are emphasizing his finger strength development and working on his endurance as a secondary goal.

Here's what Daniele says about the Program:

''I guess every climber that wants to improve follows - or wants to follow - a training schedule. And I bet that every climber - at least once - has searched online for the best recipe, the magic potion that transforms you into a Beast (well, at least in my naivety, I'm still a little dreamy boy who's looking for that :). So one day, thirsty for new plans and exercises, I bumped into strengthclimbing.com. I started to read the articles, to feed the online tools with my data to discover MY GRADE (and I stop here, because this topic is an encyclopedia apart 🙂 and, when I reached the contact details...'I know this guy!'. I met Jędrzej back in 2009 in Gent, Belgium. I was there as a visiting student at the university. He was working on his PhD. We met at the local bouldering gym (''where else'', I would add :). Besides the regular climbing sessions, we enjoyed student life as well. After that year spent together, we somehow lost contact. But 1 minute after discovering his website, I wrote him a message, and we started to exchange opinions (mainly coming from him, due to his deep knowledge of the topic - while myself just random bits of it, mainly ''stealing'' :).Then I agreed - or probably I begged him, I don't remember - to be one of the 'guinea pigs' for the validation of his methods: really excited and curious to see if this new recipe was a real elixir. Well, after a few months, I climbed my highest bouldering AND sport climbing grades! I'm still following the training (which is not the same but fine-tuned by him from time to time), and I can't wait to see what it will bring! Anyway, when we first met, I immediately had a very good impression of him, mainly his scientific and detail-oriented mindset. So, I'm not surprised to see the quality of the results: a combination of the most efficient training methods out there, synthesized into specific training plans for your personal goal. All thanks to his dedication, based on accurate studies and researches moved by passion for the topic. I hope I have found my magic cocktail (too many ''unwanted'' references to drinking in these lines..anyway, I can't wait to crack open a beer with him again :)"
Daniele (V11/8A, 5.13c/8a+)
Boulderer and Sport Climber (Belgium)
5/5

Table 1: Hangboard Training Program progress.

Beginning (05.2020)
Completed cycleStrength
MVC-7 (20 mm) [kg]128
Body weight [kg]67
MVC-7 (20 mm) [%BW]191%
CF [%MVC-7]34%
CF [%BW]66%
CF [kg]44
Score1383
Bouldering level predictionV11 (8A)
Current bouldering levelV11 (8A)
Lead level prediction5.13c (8a+)
Current lead level5.13c (8a+)

Figure 1: Critical Force as percentage of MVC-7 – progress plots.

Figure 2: Critical Force as percentage of bodyweight – progress plots.

References

  1. Fred Nicole, Wikipedia. (link)↩
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Hangboard Training Program – Jędrzej

I’ve been climbing since 2005, and since the beginning, my ambition was to send hard sport routes. However, my training focus revolved around bouldering and building strength, because I thought that if I got stronger, my endurance would also improve, a tip I read in one of the articles by Eric Hörst [1][2].

However, despite getting stronger and progressing significantly on the Moonboard, I couldn’t understand why I would very quickly get pumped when lead climbing. It was only later, after reading a paper by Lattice Training, that I discovered that the correlation between finger strength and endurance is very weak [3]. It is certainly valid for continuous hangs endurance, but not necessarily for intermittent hangs endurance, which is the key to sending difficult routes.

For these reasons, I designed my personal Training Program to put an equal emphasis on strength and endurance development. I started in July 2019 with and 8-month cycle of Steve Bechtel’s Ladders, which constituted the main part of my training sessions and helped me increase my finger strength significantly [4][5]. The second part of my sessions was a short 10 – 20-minute set of Endurance Repeaters [6]. The program proved very effective, and I managed to increase my finger strength and endurance significantly, as shown in Table 1 below. You can read the details of that part of my training program in [7]. 

Starting from April 2020, I began to focus on endurance development, by increasing the duration of the Endurance Repeaters exercise to 45 minutes. This change let me improve my endurance further, but I noticed that my finger strength began to decay. I want to become a better lead climber, but also to keep improving my bouldering, so now I’m trying to fine-tune the program to regain the finger strength level from March 2020, while efficiently developing my endurance. On this page, you will find the details of my progress, as I follow the Experimental Hangboard Training program of my design.

Table 1: Hangboard Training Program progress. Cycles 1 – 5.

Beginning (07.2019)After Cycle 1 (09.2019)After Cycle 3 (02.2020)After Cycle 4 (06.2020)After Cycle 5 (08.2020)
Completed cycleMixedStrength /EnduranceStrength /EnduranceStrengh-Endurance /EnduranceStrength /Endurance
MVC-7 (20 mm) [kg]108111114106108
Body weight [kg]6566626464
MVC-7 (20 mm) [%BW]166%168%184%166%169%
CF [%MVC-7]29%33%34%39%41%
CF [%BW]49%55%62%64%69%
CF [kg]32
36394144
Score11361193132013161373
Bouldering level predictionV7 (7A+)V8 (7B)V9 (7C)V9 (7C)V8 (7B+)
Current bouldering levelV6 (7A) (MB)V6 (7A) (MB)V8 (7B) (MB)V7 (7A+) (MB)V7 (7A+) (MB)
Lead level prediction7c+7c+8a+8a+8a+
Current lead level?????

Table 2: Hangboard Training Program progress. Cycles 6 – 8.

After Cycle 6 (09.2020)After Cycle 7 (11.2020)After Cycle 8 (01.2021)
Completed cycleStrength /EnduranceStrength /EnduranceStrength /Endurance
MVC-7 (20 mm) [kg]111111114
Body weight [kg]6464.564.5
MVC-7 (20 mm) [%BW]173%172%177%
CF [%MVC-7]39%41%43%
CF [%BW]67%70%75%
CF [kg]434549
Score137713901529
Bouldering level predictionV8 (7B+)V8 (7B+)V9 (7C)
Current bouldering levelV7(7A+) (MB)??
Lead level prediction8a+8a+8b+
Current lead level???

Figure 1: Jędrzej’s general progress in terms of MVC-7 and Critical Force, expressed as absolute loads in kg.

Figure 2: Critical Force as percentage of MVC-7 – progress plots.

Figure 3: Critical Force as percentage of bodyweight – progress plots.

References

  1. E. Hörst, Training4Climbing, 5 Reasons Why Stronger Fingers Matter!, June 10, 2016. (link)↩
  2. D. Mirsky, Evening Sends – CATCH A HANGBOARD BUZZ, Oct. 15, 2014. (link)↩
  3. Giles, D., Chidley, J.B., Taylor, N., Torr, O., Hadley, J., Randall, T., Fryer, S., 2019. The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance 1–8. (link)↩
  4. S. Bechtel, Training: Hangboard Ladders for Finger Strength, Climbing.com, Aug. 10. 2016. (link)↩
  5. J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders hangboard finger strength training, May 18, 2019. (link)↩
  6. J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – Endurance Repeaters, May 2, 2019. (link)↩
  7. J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – 8-Month Hangboard Finger Strength Training Program Results, Mar. 31, 2020. (link)↩
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Personal Hangboard Training Program

Running a climbing website became an excellent opportunity for me to study training for climbing in-depth. After all, the best way to learn something is to write about it. It also made it possible for me to have in-depth discussions with the U.S., Australia, or Italy’s best professional coaches. I got to know some fantastic people who are very motivated to improve their climbing performance. Now, having read hundreds of scientific papers and books on the physiology of sports training, hangboarding, mechanisms of fatigue, and energy systems, and after adding my 15 years of climbing experience on top of that, I decided it was time to put my knowledge into practice. 

I used my engineering background to develop a unique climbing training system based on cutting edge climbing research and tested it on a group of athletes to ensure that it is effective and safe. The program comes in two versions, addressed to both boulderers and lead climbers. The training sessions are tailored to fit precisely my clients’ current goals and climbing schedules. Based on a set of metrics of my own design, I can determine which exact facets of the athlete’s profile need improvement, be it finger strength in a specific position, anaerobic, or aerobic endurance. I tested these assessment techniques and proven them accurate for a wide range of climbing levels, from 5.11 (6b+) up to 5.14d (9a).

If you’re interested in following my program, don’t hesitate to email me!

As my course participant, you will receive:
  • Sport climbing training plans tailored to your current level and goals. This includes strength, endurance, and power training exercises.
    • The training routines are based on the most recent developments in climbing training.
  • A full assessment after each training cycle – roughly every two months
    • The assessment will allow me to plan the next training cycle and introduce adjustments to the training plan based on the progress.
  • Ongoing support for the training
    • You can send me as many emails with questions as you like. It is also possible to ask questions through WhatsApp
  • Support regarding injury prevention and treatment – fingers, elbows, shoulders
  • You will learn a lot of interesting and useful things about training methods in general, which you will be able to apply throughout your whole climbing career!

Here’s what the participants say about the program:

Samantha (5.13b/8a)

When COVID hit, and all the gyms closed down, I knew I needed something more than the standard repeaters method that I had been doing on my hangboard for years. I took to the internet and was immediately overwhelmed by how much information was out there and the conflicting schools of thought. I am the type of person that works best when someone tells me exactly what I am supposed to do, but after spending a bunch of money on websites, books, and programs, all I had was a bunch of information to sort through and no detailed plan. I came across the StrengthClimbing website and was immediately drawn to how organized the information was and how thoroughly Jedzej analyzed and explained various training methods. I messaged Jedzej to ask him about some of his research, and I was so impressed with how quickly he responded and the amount of information he provided. I have been training with him now for around 7 months. His programs are always so easy to follow and specifically designed for my needs and style of climbing. He is constantly communicating with me, tweaking my plans, reassessing, testing, and ensuring that I am on the right track. His programs range from complex to quite simple. If you have tons of time or barely any time at all, he will be able to find something that suits you. It's easy to remain motivated when I have someone to report to, and the programs switch frequently enough that I am never bored. If you want to get stronger and remain motivated, I strongly recommend training with Jędrzej
Samantha (5.13b/8a)
Sport Climber (Canada)
5/5

Piotr (5.13a/7c+)

Tired of reading, analysing, and piecing together everything I found on- and offline, I decided to look for help. Being a 43-year-old with very specific needs, I decided to contact various online coaches, who unfortunately could or did not want to take me under their wings. Through sheer luck, I came across StrenghtClimbing website, and upon having read all (sic!) its content in one go, I decided to contact Jedrzej to ask a few questions. He got back to me quickly, answered all my Qs and offered help with training. I started Jedrzej's training programme 7 months ago. At present, I can feel my fingers (crimping and grip) much stronger than before and my endurance has grown substantially. For the very first time, I am motivated to train on a fingerboard, which I had avoided and used infrequently before. I meticulously write down my results and J meticulously gets back to me with his feedback.
In short, I have found my coach!
Piotr (5.13a/7c+)
Sport Climber (Mexico)
5/5

José Antonio (5.12b/7b)

I was searching for a way to complement my training at home in 2020 because of the pandemic, and finding StrengthClimbing was not just what I was looking for but much more. I found a new way of training, which is addressed to the more specific requirements needed by a climber in order to get stronger and keep leveling up. I was used to overtraining, and this new approach has given me also more time to dedicate to my daily life by training just what's more important. The result has been finding myself with more energy and strength when I rock climb, which makes me enjoy more. Improving becomes an inevitable consequence.
José Antonio (5.12b/7b)
Sport Climber and Boulderer (Mexico)
5/5

Personal hangboard training program results

Below you can find a ranking with the most recent test results of some of my athletes
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