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Welcome to StrengthClimbing – a website dedicated to exploring the most effective and efficient rock climbing training methods.

Hangboard repeaters strength endurance hangboard protocol climbing training
Endurance Training

Hangboard Repeaters strength endurance protocol

The classic 7/3 Repeaters are a typical strength endurance training protocol, designed to mimic the grip and relax sequence that is characteristic of climbing. The loads used are generally low, compared to the Eva López MaxHangs protocol, or to the Eric Hörst’s “7-53” protocol, which makes Repeaters safer for intermediate climbers. The rest times between hangs are on the other hand very short, typically just 3 seconds, which stimulates the anaerobic lactic energy system and inevitably leads to severe muscle pump. While Eric Hörst doesn’t consider repeaters to be the best strength endurance protocol, he still thinks it can be useful as a pre-season preparation for lead climbers.

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Eva Lopez SubHangs hangboard protocol hang time vs. load intensity plot Rohmert
Tools

Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer

The Finger Strength Analyzer will allow you to see how strong your fingers are. This will give you a basic idea of how hard you should be able to boulder and how much time you should invest in strength training to progress.

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Strength Training

Eric Hörst’s “7-53” finger strength hangboard routine

The Maximum Weight “7-53” protocol is a highly effective strength training method developed by Eric Hörst as something in between the classic 7/3 Repeaters protocol and Eva López’s MaxHangs. This highly time efficient protocol is the middle ground between strength and strength endurance training, and it is recommended for intermediate and advanced climbers. With this method, Eric progressed from 22.5 kg to 41 kg added weight on a 14 mm edge and it’s his favorite hangboard protocol!

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