Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) Training for Rock Climbing - Introduction

Blood Flow Restriction is one of the most recent innovations in climbing training. I first encountered this finger strength training method in the 2021 Nugget Climbing interview with Tyler Nelson [nugget]. I tried it, and I was amazed with the results. After one training cycle of about 6 - 8 weeks, my 7-second finger strength (MVC-7) measured on a 20 mm edge hit an all-time peak of 124 kg! Moreover, I could repeat this result in 2022 with another BFR cycle.

At that point, I started focusing more on endurance training, and my finger strength declined to 109.5 kg in August 2023. But now, I did another quick BFR cycle to see if I could quickly boost my finger strength. Read on if you're curious to find out what the results were!

Sport climbing level calculator for Tindeq Progressor

Below you'll find a simple calculator that makes estimating your current redpoint level possible based on the Peak Load and Critical Force measurements done with the Tindeq Progressor. The calculator also lets you compare the result obtained with the model developed by Lattice Training and the model I’ve created for this post. Still, at this early development stage, I believe the calculations based on the earlier 4-trial method are more reliable, although the tests are more time-consuming. To get a detailed automatic sport climbing performance analysis based on the 4-trial method, please try my Sport Climbing Level Calculator.