Experimental Hangboard Training Program – Daniele
Daniele is a powerful all-round climber who specializes in bouldering but is also successful in sport climbing. He’s had a great summer so far, and he managed to set personal bests in both bouldering and lead climbing. His most spectacular achievement this year was climbing Souvenir 8A in Chironico, which was set by Fred Nicole . Below you can see an example ascent video.
Video 1: Example ascent video of Souvenir 8A.
Another success for Daniele this year was that he improved his personal best in sport climbing to 8a+ in August. Daniele prefers short and bouldery routes. When we look at his progress table, we can see that his Critical Force is currently 34% of his MVC-7, which is typical for boulderers. Still, because Daniele is very strong, his CF relative to bodyweight is 66%, which is definitely sufficient to send hard lead climbs.
Focusing on improving his endurance would probably let Daniele reach 8b+ fairly quickly. However, since he has a preference for bouldering, we are emphasizing his finger strength development and working on his endurance as a secondary goal.
Table 1: Experimental Hangboard Training Program progress.
|MVC-7 (20 mm) [kg]||128|
|Body weight [kg]||67|
|MVC-7 (20 mm) [%BW]||191%|
|Bouldering level prediction||V11 (8A)|
|Current bouldering level||V11 (8A)|
|Lead level prediction||5.13c (8a+)|
|Current lead level||5.13c (8a+)|
Figure 1: Critical Force as percentage of MVC-7 – progress plots.
Figure 2: Critical Force as percentage of bodyweight – progress plots.
- Fred Nicole, Wikipedia. (link)