Hangboard Training Program – Jędrzej
I’ve been climbing since 2005, and since the beginning, my ambition was to send hard sport routes. However, my training focus revolved around bouldering and building strength, because I thought that if I got stronger, my endurance would also improve, a tip I read in one of the articles by Eric Hörst .
However, despite getting stronger and progressing significantly on the Moonboard, I couldn’t understand why I would very quickly get pumped when lead climbing. It was only later, after reading a paper by Lattice Training, that I discovered that the correlation between finger strength and endurance is very weak . It is certainly valid for continuous hangs endurance, but not necessarily for intermittent hangs endurance, which is the key to sending difficult routes.
For these reasons, I designed my personal Training Program to put an equal emphasis on strength and endurance development. I started in July 2019 with and 8-month cycle of Steve Bechtel’s Ladders, which constituted the main part of my training sessions and helped me increase my finger strength significantly . The second part of my sessions was a short 10 – 20-minute set of Endurance Repeaters . The program proved very effective, and I managed to increase my finger strength and endurance significantly, as shown in Table 1 below. You can read the details of that part of my training program in .
Starting from April 2020, I began to focus on endurance development, by increasing the duration of the Endurance Repeaters exercise to 45 minutes. This change let me improve my endurance further, but I noticed that my finger strength began to decay. I want to become a better lead climber, but also to keep improving my bouldering, so now I’m trying to fine-tune the program to regain the finger strength level from March 2020, while efficiently developing my endurance. On this page, you will find the details of my progress, as I follow the Experimental Hangboard Training program of my design.
Table 1: Hangboard Training Program progress. Cycles 1 – 5.
|Beginning (07.2019)||After Cycle 1 (09.2019)||After Cycle 3 (02.2020)||After Cycle 4 (06.2020)||After Cycle 5 (08.2020)|
|Completed cycle||Mixed||Strength /Endurance||Strength /Endurance||Strengh-Endurance /Endurance||Strength /Endurance|
|MVC-7 (20 mm) [kg]||108||111||114||106||108|
|Body weight [kg]||65||66||62||64||64|
|MVC-7 (20 mm) [%BW]||166%||168%||184%||166%||169%|
|Bouldering level prediction||V7 (7A+)||V8 (7B)||V9 (7C)||V9 (7C)||V8 (7B+)|
|Current bouldering level||V6 (7A) (MB)||V6 (7A) (MB)||V8 (7B) (MB)||V7 (7A+) (MB)||V7 (7A+) (MB)|
|Lead level prediction||7c+||7c+||8a+||8a+||8a+|
|Current lead level||?||?||?||?||?|
Table 2: Hangboard Training Program progress. Cycles 6 – 8.
|After Cycle 6 (09.2020)||After Cycle 7 (11.2020)||After Cycle 8 (01.2021)|
|Completed cycle||Strength /Endurance||Strength /Endurance||Strength /Endurance|
|MVC-7 (20 mm) [kg]||111||111||114|
|Body weight [kg]||64||64.5||64.5|
|MVC-7 (20 mm) [%BW]||173%||172%||177%|
|Bouldering level prediction||V8 (7B+)||V8 (7B+)||V9 (7C)|
|Current bouldering level||V7(7A+) (MB)||?||?|
|Lead level prediction||8a+||8a+||8b+|
|Current lead level||?||?||?|
Figure 1: Jędrzej’s general progress in terms of MVC-7 and Critical Force, expressed as absolute loads in kg.
Figure 2: Critical Force as percentage of MVC-7 – progress plots.
Figure 3: Critical Force as percentage of bodyweight – progress plots.
- E. Hörst, Training4Climbing, 5 Reasons Why Stronger Fingers Matter!, June 10, 2016. (link)
- D. Mirsky, Evening Sends – CATCH A HANGBOARD BUZZ, Oct. 15, 2014. (link)
- Giles, D., Chidley, J.B., Taylor, N., Torr, O., Hadley, J., Randall, T., Fryer, S., 2019. The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance 1–8. (link)
- S. Bechtel, Training: Hangboard Ladders for Finger Strength, Climbing.com, Aug. 10. 2016. (link)
- J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders hangboard finger strength training, May 18, 2019. (link)
- J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – Endurance Repeaters, May 2, 2019. (link)
- J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – 8-Month Hangboard Finger Strength Training Program Results, Mar. 31, 2020. (link)