If you're a sport/lead climber, there's a new tool available! The Sport Climbing Level Calculator!
The Sport Climbing Level Calculator is designed specifically for sport/lead climbers. It analyzes the athlete's finger strength and forearm endurance profile to estimate the expected climbing grade accurately.
The Sport Climbing Level Calculator will:
- Let you know how hard you could be climbing at your current fitness level
- Pinpoint your biggest weaknesses and help you effectively target them
- Give you an instant automatic assessment and help you design a training plan tailored to your exact needs!
If you're a sport/lead/trad climber, follow this link. If you're a boulderer, stick with the Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer 2.0.
Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer 2.0
The Bouldering Finger Strength Calculator will allow you to see how strong your fingers truly are. Simply add a load to your harness and hang two-handed or one-handed on the edge of your choice for as long as you can. You may use either the half crimp or open crimp hold position. Input your height, arm span, body weight, and select your current mode of hangboard training. The analyzer will then predict your average bouldering level. The result is fairly consistent with the Lattice finger strength benchmarks.
The result will give you a basic idea of how hard you should be able to boulder at the moment and how much stronger you need to get to progress. It will also allow you to determine whether it's strength or technique that is potentially holding you back! So get your weight belt on, or hang a bucket full of sand from your harness, hop on the hangboard, and see if you're the next Alex Megos!
Please let me know if the result was accurate for you! I would appreciate it if you could provide your bouldering finger strength input parameters together with your result in the post comments section. This will help me improve the algorithm in the future!
Important: Warm-up your fingers and shoulders thoroughly before performing the tests, or before engaging in any climbing training. This will not only help you to avoid injury, but the result of the analysis will also be more accurate. To obtain the best results, follow the detailed instructions on how to use the Finger Strength Climbing Analyzer in the sections below.
Note: This is just an automatic bouldering level assessment. To get insight into your lead climbing performance, you can use the Critical Force Calculator, or if you would like to get a personal climbing performance evaluation like this one, please feel free to contact me directly at [email protected].
Want to know how to make perfect MVC-7 measurements for the calculator?
Read this article.