- 8-month finger strength training program – Abstract
- Hangboard finger strength training – Introduction
- Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders finger strength training cycle details
- Grip position details: FC 14 mm, HC 14 mm, 3-p 20 mm
- MVC-7 and MVC-12 tests
- My 3-6-9 Ladders protocol finger strength training progress – training Cycle 1
- Sixteen sessions over three months
- Average absolute finger strength gain: +4.9%
- Finger strength gain relative to BW: +2.0%
- Results demonstration video
- My 3-6-9 Ladders protocol finger strength training progress – training Cycle 2
- Thirteen sessions over two months
- Average absolute finger strength gain: +3.5%
- Finger strength gain relative to BW: +7.1%
- My 3-6-9 Ladders protocol finger strength training progress – training Cycle 3
- Fourteen sessions over two months
- Average absolute finger strength gain: +2.1%
- Finger strength gain relative to BW: +17.4%
- Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders volume progression
- Continuous Energy Restriction
- Intermittent Fasting, Keto Diet and Low Carb Diets
- Details of the dietary regimen
- Combination of Intermittent Fasting, Low Carb and Ketogenic Diet
- Result: -6.9% weight loss in seven weeks
- Adverse effects of sleep deficit on strength gains
- Summary of absolute finger strength hangboard training gains
- Summary of relative finger strength hangboard training gains
- Moonboard bouldering progress summary
- My 3-6-9 Ladders finger strength training program final conclusions
- Gained absolute strength while losing weight
- Total average absolute finger strength improvement: +11.0%
- Total finger strength gain relative to BW: 26.5%
- Improved Moonboard benchmark grade from 7A to 7B
- Sent many long-time projects and new hard boulders
- Make sure to follow the protocol through!
8-month finger strength training program – Abstract
Background: Running a full-time professional career, a family, and a blog leave me with little time do train and sleep for recovery. I can rarely afford to go to the gym, let alone climb outdoors. The bulk of my training consists of hangboarding. In this post, I describe the results of my eight-month hangboard finger strength training program with Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders routine.
Objective: To verify how much I can progress my absolute and relative finger strength while undergoing a weight loss intervention, and under conditions of chronic sleep deprivation.
Design: The hangboard training program consisted of three training cycles. After each cycle, I increased the hang loads. I trained three hold positions, the 14 mm edge full crimp, 14 mm half crimp, and 20 mm 3-finger pocket. I tested my maximum finger strength with 7-second hangs on a 20 mm edge in half crimp position (MVC-7 HC 20).
Results: With the program, I increased my MVC-7 HC 20 absolute strength from 108 kg to 116 kg. During the last training cycle, I managed to reduce my body weight from 65.5 kg to 61 kg through Intermittent Fasting and Low Carbohydrate/Keto Diet. As a result, I increased my relative finger strength from 163.5% to 190%, allowing me to improve from the 7A benchmark to 7B benchmark level on the Moonboard Masters 2017 hold setup.
Conclusions: Hangboard training is an effective and efficient method of improving maximum finger strength. Satisfactory gains can be expected despite inadequate sleep and undergoing a weight loss intervention. Losing weight contributed to the increase of my relative finger strength and allowed me to progress my Moonboard bouldering level significantly.
Hangboard finger strength training – IntroductionFinger strength is one of the most important, if not the most important aspect of sport climbing and bouldering. I found on multiple occasions that a thoroughly executed finger strength cycle on a hangboard allowed me to send projects, on which I’d been stuck for months. I’ve been hangboarding practically ever since I started climbing, back in 2005. The first hangboard workout I ever tried was the fingerboard moving hangs, described by Eric Hörst in his book “Training for Climbing” . It’s basically a strength endurance training routine, and the good thing about it was that it was safe, a significant factor for a beginner climber I was at the time. Still, it was not until 2010 that I became serious about hangboarding and made it the cornerstone of my rock climbing training. I began experimenting with Hangboard Repeaters, and for a long while, it became the only hangboard exercise I did . But in 2018, I noticed that I wasn’t able to add more weight to the hangs any more and that my strength had plateaued. I went out on a search for purely strength-oriented hangboard training methods, and I started with the Eva López MaxHangs . The results were pretty impressive, and I began to gain strength quickly. At that point, I read “Logical Progression” by Steve Bechtel, and I became immediately interested in his new approach to rock climbing training . If you don’t know who Steve Bechtel is, you can listen to one of his interviews at .
Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders finger strength training Cycle 1
According to the protocol instructions, the first thing you