Quick summary

Eva López SubHangs strength endurance protocol

Eva López SubHangs strength endurance protocol was introduced on her blog in early 2018 [1]. The method is very similar to her MaxHangs routine for finger strength. Still, longer hang times are applied, which is aimed primarily at improving strength endurance and potentially also strength itself, through hypertrophy. For the MaxHangs, hang times of about 10 seconds are common, but for the SubHangs strength endurance protocol, hang times of up to 45 seconds are used [1][2].

In a way, Eva López SubHangs strength endurance protocol is quite similar to the more old fashioned way of hangboard training, where long hangs till failure were preferred [3]. This resulted in many shoulder injuries because the shoulder joint gets fatigued quicker than the fingers [4]. The protocol can be executed in two versions, the minimum edge with no added weight (SubHangs MED) and with added weight (SubHangs MAW). However, the MAW version is recommended only for advanced climbers [1].

Eva López SubHangs MED protocol details

  1. Choose an edge on which you can hang between 20 and 45 seconds.
  2. Perform one hang of 20 – 45 seconds, rest for 30 seconds up to 2 minutes.
  3. Perform 4 – 8 sets.

Eva López SubHangs MAW protocol details

  1. Choose an edge between 14 – 20 mm and a corresponding load, so that you can hang between 20 and 45 seconds.
  2. Perform one hang of 20 – 45 seconds, rest for 30 seconds up to 2 minutes.
  3. Perform 4 – 8 sets.

Table 1: Eva López SubHangs protocol summary.

SubHangs MED/MAW
Hang test time [s]20 - 45
MVC-7 load55 - 85%
Sets4 - 8
Hangs/set1
Hang time [s]20 - 45
Rest betw. sets [s]30 - 180
TUT [s]80 - 360
Total time [min]3 - 27

SubHangs strength endurance routine remarks

  • The SubHangs strength endurance MAW protocol is only recommended for advanced climbers with a lot of training experience. Beginners and intermediate should stick to SubHangs MED.
  • You can tailor the program to suit your current performance requirements:
    • If you need to improve your recovery time between sustained sections of a route, you should start with long rests of 2 – 3 minutes between sets. Shorten the rests gradually while progressing through the program, down to a minimum of 30 seconds. Keep the hang duration or load constant.
    • Alternatively, if you need to be able to hold a specific grip position for a longer time, you can increase the hang period and keep the pause unchanged.
  • If the pause between sets is less than 2 minutes, select the load in such a way, so that you reach failure or near-failure in the last hang of the session.
  • If the pause between sets is 2 – 3 minutes, select the load in such a way so that you reach failure or near-failure at the end of each set.
  • You may need to adjust the load (SubHangs MAW) or edge depth (SubHangs MED) for each set or even repetition, to reach failure exactly when it is required.
  • Training frequency [5]
    • For improving your strength endurance perform the drills twice a week, with  48 – 72 hours recovery between the sessions.
    • If you want to maintain your current strength endurance level, exercising once a week should be sufficient.
    • For advanced climbers who train 5-6 times per week, three SubHangs sessions a week are possible if they don’t climb during the weekends.
  • Make sure to warm up your shoulders before you start the protocol. The longer hangs, above 30 seconds, can be very straining on the shoulders and potentially lead to rotator cuff injuries.

Video 1: Short video demonstration of the Eva López SubHangs protocol.

Make sure to warm up your shoulders thoroughly, if you're going for the long hang times above 30 seconds.

Typical SubHangs strength endurance training cycles

The basic principle for the SubHangs protocols is to create a training overload by progressing the volume. Steve Bechtel applied a similar approach in his 3-6-9 Ladders strength training protocol [6][7]. Once the progress slows down, you should start changing other workout parameters. You may try the following two approaches [5]:
  • Keep the hang intensity and recovery times fixed while extending the hang duration up to 45 seconds.
  • Keep the hang intensity and hang times fixed while shortening the recovery time between sets down to 30 seconds.

SubHangs strength endurance training cycle for beginners

  • Week 1: 2 sets/session
  • Week 2: 3 sets/session
  • Weeks 3 and 4: 4 sets/session
  • Weeks 5 and 6: rest
  • Weeks 7 and 8: 3 sets/session
  • Weeks 9 and 10: 4 sets/session
For beginners, a single 4-week cycle may be sufficient.

SubHangs strength endurance training cycle for intermediate

  • Week 1: 3 sets/session
  • Weeks 2 and 3: 4 sets/session
  • Week 4: 5 sets/session
  • Week 5: rest
  • Weeks 6: 3 sets/session
  • Week 7: 4 sets/session
  • Weeks 8 and 9: 5 sets/session

SubHangs strength endurance training cycle for advanced

  • Week 1: 3 sets/session
  • Week 2: 4 sets/session
…