Eva López MaxHangs hangboard routine – quick summary

Eva López MaxHangs hangboard routine

The Maximum Hangs (MaxHangs) protocols were developed and popularized by Eva López, a Spanish elite climber, coach, and sports scientist [1]. The training protocols are low volume and high intensity. When first introduced, the MaxHangs hangboard routine was faced with some skepticism, because of the relatively short time under tension (TUT), compared with, e.g., Hangboard Repeaters or Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders [2][3]. However, despite the program’s low volume, Eva López was able to prove the extreme effectiveness of her routines scientifically.

Since then, MaxHangs have become widely accepted in the climbing community [4]. Eva’s findings are in line with the results of recent research, which show that a low volume routine can be just as effective as a high volume one while being significantly more time-efficient [5]. The protocol can be executed in two versions, the minimum edge with no added weight (MaxHangs MED) and with added weight (MaxHangs MAW). Both methods trigger neural adaptations through short TUT and high loads (75 – 103% of MVC) [6]. 

Trigger neural adaptations efficiently through low volume, short time under tension, and high loads.

MaxHangs MAW-MED 8-week training cycle spreadsheet

Setting up your own training cycle can be challenging, particularly in the case of routines such as the MaxHangs, where it's necessary to calculate added load, edge depths, and other parameters. That's why I have created functional Excel spreadsheets for StrengthClimbing registered Premium Users.

All you need to do is register for a 1-month subscription plan and download the Excel spreadsheet. The MaxHangs MAW_MED training spreadsheet features a complete 8-week training plan that consists of 4 weeks of MaxHangs MAW and 4 weeks of MaxHangs MED. You may train various hold positions, from half crimp and full crimp through 3-finger drag, 2-finger pockets, and even pinches.

The training sessions are programmed, and hang loads are calculated automatically, although advanced users will find the spreadsheet easy to customize to modify their training plans. You just need to measure your finger strength based on the step-by-step instructions included, and the rest is done automatically.

And in case you have any additional questions, as a Premium User, you get full technical support. I can also help you customize the training plan according to your goals. On top of that, you get access to all StrengthClimbing Premium Content, including articles, instructional videos, tools, and training programs!

MaxHangs training cycle!

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Eva López MaxHangs hangboard routine

Eva López MaxHangs hangboard routine details (MED)
  1. Choose an edge on which you can hang for only 6 – 20 seconds.
  2. Hang for 5 – 15 seconds (leave a 1 – 5-second margin), rest for 3 – 5 minutes.
  3. Complete 2 – 5 sets.
To follow this protocol you will need a hangboard with progressively small edges, like the Progression and Transgression hangboards, developed by Eva López, or the adjustable Fingerschinder portable wooden hangboard [7][8]. Still, it should be reasonably easy to make your own board with different size wooden edges. The way I do it is that I insert 2 mm thick cardboard strips into the edge slots of my Zlagboard, as you can see in Figure 1 [9].

Figure 1: Cardboard strips in the edge slots of the Zlagboard, to adjust edge depth.

Eva López MaxHangs hangboard routine details (MAW)

  1. Choose a grip position to train.
  2. Add enough weight to be able to hang for only 6 – 20 seconds.
  3. Hang for 5 – 15 seconds (leave a 1 – 5-second margin), rest for 3 – 5 minutes.
  4. Complete 2 – 5 sets.

Table 1: MaxHangs protocol summary.

MaxHangs
Hang test time [s]6 - 20
Margin [s]1 - 5
MVC-7 load75 - 103%
Sets2 - 5
Hangs/set1
Hang time [s]5 - 15
Rest betw. sets [min]3 - 5
TUT [s]10 - 75
Total time [min]3 - 21

Eva López MaxHangs strength training protocol remarks

  • Always warm up properly before doing the MaxHangs hangboard routine.
    • Perform three to four sets with increasing added weight or decreasing edge depth (50 – 90% of the previous session’s load) [4].
  • The number of MaxHangs sets can be varied between 2 – 5.
    • Beginners should start with two sets.
  • The hang time can be varied between 5 – 15 seconds.
    • Typical hang time: 10 seconds
  • The margin is also called the effort level (EL)  and may be varied between 1 – 5 seconds [10].
    • Leaving a margin leads to similar results as reaching failure, but reduces the risk of injury.
    • Typical margin: 3 seconds
  • The rest time between sets can be varied between 3 – 5 minutes.
    • Typical rest time between sets: 3 minutes
  • For the MaxHangs MED protocol, an edge between 5 – 10 mm is usually chosen.
    • During each set try to assess the time margin you have left on the hangs.
      • If you feel like your margin exceeds 3 – 5 seconds, decrease the edge depth by 1 – 2 mm, according to the perceived effort.
      • If you feel like your margin approaches
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