- Hangboard Repeaters strength endurance protocol
- Hangboard Repeaters – the first-ever protocol designed for hangboard training
- Leads to intense muscle pump
- The 7/3 Hangboard Repeaters strength endurance protocol details
- THe 7/3 Hangboard Repeaters summary table
- Hangboard Repeaters routine remarks
- Hangboard Repeaters strength endurance protocol results and discussion
- Finger strength gains of 21.5% reported after just four weeks of training.
- Finger strength gains of 32.0% reported after multiple 4-week cycles.
- Redpoint: 1st season: +1.44 YDS letter-grade, multiple seasons: +2.5 YDS letter-grade
- Onsight: 1st season: +1.51 YDS letter-grade, multiple seasons: +2.03 YDS letter-grade
Hangboard Repeaters strength endurance protocol
The knowledge as to who exactly invented the Hangboard Repeaters strength endurance protocol is lost in the darkness of history, but it’s probably the first structured hangboard protocol ever developed . It’s designed to mimic the grip and relax sequence that is characteristic of climbing. The loads applied are generally low, compared to Eva López’s MaxHangs protocol, or to the Eric Hörst’s “7-53” protocol, which makes it safer for intermediate climbers . The rest times between hangs are on the other hand very short, typically just 3 seconds. This means that your body will have to tap into both the alactic energy system, burning the creatine phosphate (PCr) stored in the muscles, but also to the lactic energy system, where anaerobic glycolysis is contributing to adenosine triphosphate (ATP) production. Enhanced blood flow will be induced to enable lactate and hydrogen ions removal, which will in turn inevitably lead to muscle pump. While Eric Hörst doesn’t consider Hangboard Repeaters to be the best strength endurance protocol, he still thinks it can be useful as a pre-season preparation for lead climbers .
The 7/3 Hangboard Repeaters strength endurance protocol details
- Choose three to seven different grip positions. Consider including:
- An open crimp
- A full crimp
- A three-finger pocket
- Two-finger pockets: index-middle (IM), middle-ring (MR) and ring-pinkie (RP) – advanced
- A sloper
- For each grip position determine your MVC and the respective training load.
- For each grip position:
- Hang for 7 seconds, rest for 3 seconds.
- Complete a total of 6 hangs.
- Rest 2 – 3 minutes and switch to the next grip position.
- The set is finished once all hangs for all the chosen grip positions are complete.
- Rest 12 – 15 minutes between sets.
- Complete a total of 1 – 3 sets.
Table 1: The 7/3 Hangboard Repeaters summary table.
|MVC hang test time [s]||5 - 10|
|MVC-7 load (beginner)||40 - 50%|
|MVC-7 load (advanced)||60 - 80%|
|Sets||1 - 3|
|Positions/set||3 - 7|
|Hang time [s]||7|
|Rest betw. hangs [s]||3|
|Rest betw. pos. [min]||2 - 3|
|Rest betw. sets [min]||12 - 15|
|TUT [s]||126 - 882|
|Total time [min]||7 - 105|
Hangboard Repeaters routine remarks
- For the maximum voluntary contraction (MVC) determination use 5 – 10-second test hangs.
- The load for Hangboard Repeaters strength endurance protocol should be equivalent to 60 – 80% of your MVC.
- Beginners should start with 40 – 50% of their MVC and do no more than two sets.
- The last hangs are supposed to feel hard, and you should get pumped.
- You should be able to complete all the hangs – use a pulley system to adjust the load.
- If you can’t complete all the hangs, reduce weight.
- If the hangs are too easy, add weight.
- Alternatively, you can try doing Hangboard Repeaters till failure (Endurance Repeaters).
- If you want to experiment with the hang times and the rest times, you can try:
- 6 seconds hang, 4 seconds rest
- 5 seconds hang, 5 seconds rest
- 5 seconds hang, 2 seconds rest
In Figure 1 below, my example exercise logs for the 7/3 Hangboard Repeaters strength endurance protocol are shown. The routines were done on the Moon Fingerboard for six different hang positions: 3-finger sloper, 3-finger pocket, two 2-finger pockets (index-middle, middle-ring), full crimp, and half crimp . First, a 30-second hang test was done for each grip position, corresponding to roughly 80% MVC-7 intensity . For each position, the added/subtracted weight was recorded and subsequently adjusted. However, because of the large variety of holds used, which lead to a relatively high exercise volume, it was impossible for me to complete the routine. I recalculated the hang intensity and reduced it to 75%, based on the MVC-7 measured for each hold position. Yet, for the